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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all, same 91 Sub, it has a weird problem that if the shifter goes too far forward toward the engine, the motor will kill. It is importnat to note that it looks like the shifter is going too far forward when this problem causes the motor to kill. I'm guessing there's some sort of backstop that's broken in the column, but I'm not sure. The previous owner made a temporary fix to the problem by attaching several rubber bands to the shifter and the non-turning section of the ignition cylinder, thereby keeping it from going too far forward. He told me that a friend of his looked at it and guessed it was possibly 3 diffrent parts, all of which have something to do with the horn.. Now, this doesn't sound right, but I don't think it's going to be anything terribly difficult to fix. Unfortunatley, like all my other posts so far, I can't run out to the truck to give exact details as I haven't take delivery with it yet, but I have a pretty good photographic memory, especially about these few problems the truck has. Thanks
 

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Check the neutral safety switch

I would look at the neutral safety switch. It is connected to the shifter and might be the source of your trouble. It is near the base of the steering column if my memory serves me correctly. It looks like this:
 

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killing engine

I would look at the neutral safety switch. It is connected to the shifter and might be the source of your trouble. It is near the base of the steering column if my memory serves me correctly. It looks like this:
What he said.

Could just be loose, or defective.
 

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I don't want to be the one to disagree, and I'm not saying that I do. But the neutral safety switch is at the base of the steering column at the wall. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what he's saying, but it sounds like the selector arm itself is causing the problem, like it's shorting out on something closer to the arm itself.

or...

When you turn the key to start the engine, doesn't that control linkage, that operates the ignition switch? I've never actually pulled one of these columns apart before. If the arm has more travel than it's originally allowed to have, is it possible that it's making contact with that linkage, and pushing it back into an off position?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
trailleadr, are you always right??? ;) You sound like you hit the nail on the head with the problem. My uncle came up with a similar scenario with the whole ignition rod-thing causing the motor to turn off. Unfortunatley, until I take delivery and get a chance to pull the column apart, I don't know for sure.
 

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It could be anything related to the switch, ignition, neutral safety.

I have had to change entire columns because of similar problems.

Worst case scenario pull the column and replace with a bone yard one.

You won’t know for sure until you get the thing apart.

Good luck and if you need us we will be here.
 

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trailleadr, are you always right??? ;) You sound like you hit the nail on the head with the problem. My uncle came up with a similar scenario with the whole ignition rod-thing causing the motor to turn off. Unfortunatley, until I take delivery and get a chance to pull the column apart, I don't know for sure.
You're going to make him have a big ego! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just went to the auto parts store to get a haynes manual on this truck, and I think the book has successfully intimidated me into possibly getting a shop to take care of it. It looks like dissasembling the steering column is a big job, and reading all I could find pertaining to the column, I couldn't find anything that I thought could lead to the motor killing like that. I am guessing if the shift lever got too far away from the neutral saftey switch, it could cause the motor to kill? There's gotta be some backstop in the column that's broken.
 

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The column is not too difficult to take apart. I just finished one in my old Trans Am this past weekend. When you take a piece out, lay it on the dash right next to the previous piece and when you reassemble, it will all be laid out for you in the order it goes back in.

Does it have tilt and does the steering wheel wobble around? If so, there are three Torx headed bolts that attach the tilting portion to the solid portion. These come loose pretty often and just need retightening.

If you decide to try it yourself, you will need a steering wheel puller and a tool that removes the lock plate (can't remember the name of it).

If you decide to tackle it, I can give you a little more detailed information.

If you want to take a day trip to Dallas, I'll give you a hand with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think my uncle and I are going to tackle the job. He has a steering wheel puller I believe, but the other puller, I don't think he has. I don't remember if it has tilt steering, I hope it does, but something tells me it doesn't. In addition to figuring this problem out, I can also try to fix the problem with the gear indicator on the dash not showing the correct gear. You have to count the positions to know what gear you're in. I'd appreciate some more detailed information as to what to pull off and the best way to tackle the situation. I'd head over to dallas if it weren't so far away :) Thanks
 

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The gear shift indicator is an easy fix, with a couple different scenarios. Either the clip came off of the collar that is attached to the selector, or the cable (very thin wire) broke.

If the clip came off, you'll see a small gouge in the plastic where it used to sit. Simply slide the clip back into place.

If the cable broke, go get yourself some 10lb test fishing line, and fix it. Once the column is apart you'll see how to fix it.
 

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Lockout / tagout

Well, just as long as your grounded when working with electrical lines. :cool:
With alternating current, I believe the proper procedure is to disconnect the power source and then lockout/tagout. Grounding yourself while working on AC can be hazardous!:eek: As far as DC, disconnecting the ground is recommended when servicing a component in a live circuit.
 

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With alternating current, I believe the proper procedure is to disconnect the power source and then lockout/tagout. Grounding yourself while working on AC can be hazardous!:eek: As far as DC, disconnecting the ground is recommended when servicing a component in a live circuit.
I remember when I was younger, I was fixing a head gasket on a Dodge Omni. I had fixed so many, for other people that I could do the job, and have the car back on the road in 30 min max. I had a routine, and I thought that I had disconnected the battery, but I hadn't. I lifted the fully dressed head (all manifolds still on) to get the gasket out. The head settled back down, and slid back, and shorted the terminals on the starter. I heard the pop, and tried to pull the head back forward off the starter, but it was stuck. In a panic, since the positive lead was starting the smoke, I grabbed a claw hammer, and started to pry the connector off the terminal. Instead it had fused, and the whole rod slid right out of the battery, smoking and steaming.

Luckily this was my car, so I didn't need to worry about anyone being mad at me for damaging the battery, starter, and head. Needless to say, that was not a 30 minute repair.:tongue:

Your post just reminded me of it.
 

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Duh oh

If you decide to try it yourself, you will need a steering wheel puller and a tool that removes the lock plate (can't remember the name of it).
Would you believe it's called the "Steering Wheel lock plate removal tool?" Available to rent from most parts stores, or buy one for about $18:biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
trailleadr, here's the thing, the gearshift inidcator works, it just doesn't indicate the right gear. When you're in drive, I think it shows reverse, so it's like 2 or 3 gears off. I'm guessing the cable stretched or something, but I'm not sure...
 

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clip

The clip probably shifted.
Or the colum has been removed and the clip was not put back in the right place, this I would beleive if the previous owner had problems and tried to fix them himself.
 
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