[Jimmeh]

So I went and had new tires put on my truck (well, newer then what I had) and figured since I have a spare wheel that matches the ones I got on now, I might as well have my brand new spare mounted on it (literally, the spare is the stock spare from the factory and is still brand new). When I took it to my favorite tire shop, 4 of us were working on it for about half an hour, and could not get the damn thing to budge. My tire guy told me to head down to the dealer and they would help me get it off (he said they most likely wouldn't charge me). When I got to the dealer, they said they wouldn't do it unless I paid them the hourly rate which is $98 an hour!

I found this thread: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sh...are-Tire-Removal&highlight=spare+tire+removal

I'll try the pinching method, but I think I will end up getting frustrated and resorting to the kicking method. The guy at the dealer said there is a bold that holds the mechanism assembly to the frame that I can remove, but I could not feel it. Anyway, I am going to do this tomorrow, but figured I would see if anybody had any other advice.

 

[TELORVEHC]

I had the same exact issue as you, except I couldn't get my spare off when I needed it. I got a flat tire in the parking lot of the tire shop (how ironic lol) and it took me & a buddy 45 min. haggling with the stupid spare tire mechanism and we still couldn't get the damn thing off. I used the lug wrench and followed the instructions provided with the jack and I still couldn't get it off. I almost resorted to using a sawzall and just cutting the damn thing off lol. The folks at GM seriously made the spare tire carrier waayyyy more complicated than it needed to be. I'm quite interested if this method will work, keep us posted!

 

[Z71 Coltman]

Could always spray some WD-40 on it, cant hurt.

 

[adampaul1964]

I had the same problem with mine, got it down while I had the bed off.


http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php?62269-Spare-Tire-Removal

 

[jreagan]

Mine was rusted and easy to release once you know the trick.

1) Get two jacks (I used the OEM bottle jack and my floor jack) and a couple of 2x4s.
2) Support the spare tire near each side using the 2x4s so the hub is accessible
3) Lower the cable/latch until it stops. At this point, the secondary latch is keeping it from coming down further
4) From the passenger side (that was easiest for me), you can pull the latch mechanism over and liberally spray WD-40 all up in there
5) Go have a beverage to let the WD-40 do its job
6) Get a pair of channel locks and you'll want to squeeze only one side. You can't just squeeze both sides that that doesn't move the mechanism. You want to squeeze the side that is sticking out the LEAST. You are tempted to squeeze the larger side, but only engages the clip more (although doing that might help break up any rust holding it in place).
7) Keep trying a few times, move it around, up & down, etc. and it will release.
8) Crank the cable back up, get rid of your jacks, lower the tire down.
9) Take it all apart and lube well.

PM me if you have questions.

Here's a video that might help:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhZ2LP7nfLU&list=FLPPTjw1LUGFM&index=13

 

[icemncmth]

I would suggest not using WD-40. WD-40 attracts dust and dirt I would use something else. WD-40 has a great use..it is a Water Displacement product not a lubricant.

Just my 2 cents.

Mine was rusted and easy to release once you know the trick.

1) Get two jacks (I used the OEM bottle jack and my floor jack) and a couple of 2x4s.
2) Support the spare tire near each side using the 2x4s so the hub is accessible
3) Lower the cable/latch until it stops. At this point, the secondary latch is keeping it from coming down further
4) From the passenger side (that was easiest for me), you can pull the latch mechanism over and liberally spray WD-40 all up in there
5) Go have a beverage to let the WD-40 do its job
6) Get a pair of channel locks and you'll want to squeeze only one side. You can't just squeeze both sides that that doesn't move the mechanism. You want to squeeze the side that is sticking out the LEAST. You are tempted to squeeze the larger side, but only engages the clip more (although doing that might help break up any rust holding it in place).
7) Keep trying a few times, move it around, up & down, etc. and it will release.
8) Crank the cable back up, get rid of your jacks, lower the tire down.
9) Take it all apart and lube well.

PM me if you have questions.

Here's a video that might help:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhZ2LP7nfLU&list=FLPPTjw1LUGFM&index=13

 

[jreagan]

That was #9. After I took everything apart, I cleaned out the penetrating oil and applied a spray lubricant both on the secondary latch as well as up in the cable winding mechanism.

And I actually didn't use WD-40 brand, but another brand of rust penetrating oil (not that it matters much)

 

[Tinner]

When they put the spare under the truck at the factory it isn't fully inflated and then they shoot some air in it. This keeps people from easily stealing them at the dealers. Just let a bunch of air out first and then crank it down and air it back to the desired pressure.

 

[jreagan]

When they put the spare under the truck at the factory it isn't fully inflated and then they shoot some air in it. This keeps people from easily stealing them at the dealers. Just let a bunch of air out first and then crank it down and air it back to the desired pressure.

I don't see how letting air out of the spare would release the frozen secondary interlock. In my case, my spare ONLY had about 20lbs of air in it. That was one of the reasons I wanted to lower it to begin with! I wanted to check the tire for condition and to add more air. It didn't crank down. And that is how I got started on my learning of "how to release a frozen/stuck spare tire due to secondary interlock"

 

[DTACA Burban]

I had the same problem. I was able to get a big flat blade screwdriver in there to release the secondary latch and get it down. Thank goodness it wasn't an emergency situation. I lubricated the mechanism over the weekend and it would not free up and work properly. I took my grinder and ground off the nubb of the secondary latch and never had a problem getting it to come down again. I was initially worried that it might drop down unexpectantly but after months of driving in all types of road and weather conditions it never loosened up. However, when I did need it to come down that one day on the side of the road it did so effortlessly. IMO this is the only true fix for this lousy design, especially in colder climates that produce corrosion so easy.

 

[Jimmeh]

So as an update on this problem as well, I ended up having to remove the entire assembly. The secondary latch was also so seized up that even "releasing" it with a screw driver would not allow the mechanism to drop. For those having the same problem, you will need to lower the unit as far as it will go, and remove the bolt from the frame holding the entire assembly in place (a ratcheting box end 3/4 inch wrench will make this task extremely easy [it may be a different size, I just think I remember it being 3/4]).

Please, use jack stands, as the whole weight of the tire and spare carrier will be coming down. After the bolt is removed, the assembly simply tilts to allow the gravity holder to come away from the frame and voila! If you plan on re-installing, doing the above methods for greasing will work. I went ahead and left mine on the spare and sold it to somebody else to mess with, as I have a different plan for my spare tire.

 

[wis bang]

The whole assembly is junk! I tried followed the directions saying you had to tighten the cable to trip the secondary.

Didn't work but the part that the jack handle goes into spread & I had to jack up the spare and crank it up w/ no weight on it.

I lubed the secondary and the cable won't crank up enough to lock. I added {2} huge zip ties [verizon issue] from the wheel to the frame. If I ever need the spare it will come down and I'll throw everything in the bed.

The cable system on my S-10 worked every time for 306,000 miles, usually to change the spare as I purchased 4 new tires. This one won't last that long!

 

[Sierraowner5.3]

my dad is a firm believer of cranking the spare up and down ever 6 months. keeps things from siezing to bad. soak the whole mess in wd-40 overnight and then crank it. his 92 k1500 hasnt given him any problems and hes had it for 8 years.

Alex

 

[glenn27]

Your Dad sounds like he learned the hard way one time...Doesn't take but once..

glenn