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I have a 95 k1500 with starter problems. It started out as breaking the outside bolt all the time. We drilled all the way through the block and nutted both sides. It held for a couple years. A few months ago it broke the inside bolt. Replaced it with a new one. Now I'm having problems with them staying tight. The past few days they've been tight but somehow the starter is coming out of place just enough I have to loosen the bolts pull down on it as far as I can tighten them back up then start it. All it does when I try to start it now is grind. I'm guessing the teeth are worn and I need a new starter but I think there's another problem underlying somewhere. Thanks for any help.
 

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Yeah, might be the wrong size. I haven't had to check spacing for a long time, and I don't want to offer the wrong info, at times like this, I go to Youtube for a how-to
 

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While you have the starter off check the teeth on the flywheel. Generally the steel on the bendix gear of the starter are softer so they are what wears out before the flywheel ring gear but it still can get worn. Also if you go to buy a new starter make sure to pay a little bit more and get a lifetime warranty one. That way if it happens again you won't have to pay for one again. Ive got an old ford dump truck that Ive had to replace the starter 3 times for the same thing your going through but on a ford there are no place for shims or room for adjustment.

PS Whats up with that avatar picture:eek:;)
 

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To stop the bolts and nuts from loosening again I would get some nyloc nuts and some lock washers.
Pikey, I was just wondering how well nyloc stands up to heat? Do they just melt in? Don't know, in any case
a proper red neck girl should have some red Loctite sitting around that might save a trip for the new nuts
 

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I'm replacing the starter tomorrow. My picture is of the boobs on my truck. Instead of truck nuts they're truck boobs
the starter bolts should be washed with solvent. then using a spray can of electronic cleaner with a straw spray the block threads clean. these would normally go on dry NO lube... It is possible the bolt threads or the block threads have rusted/worn .. with starter off see that the bolts go in normal not sloppy... using blue medium lock tight should keep it from loosening. check the flywheel teeth for damage and use shims if necessary for the clearance.
 

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the starter bolts should be washed with solvent. then using a spray can of electronic cleaner with a straw spray the block threads clean. these would normally go on dry NO lube... It is possible the bolt threads or the block threads have rusted/worn .. with starter off see that the bolts go in normal not sloppy... using blue medium lock tight should keep it from loosening. check the flywheel teeth for damage and use shims if necessary for the clearance.
engine backfire on start can do this ...
 

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I have a 95 k1500 with starter problems. It started out as breaking the outside bolt all the time. We drilled all the way through the block and nutted both sides. It held for a couple years. A few months ago it broke the inside bolt. Replaced it with a new one. Now I'm having problems with them staying tight. The past few days they've been tight but somehow the starter is coming out of place just enough I have to loosen the bolts pull down on it as far as I can tighten them back up then start it. All it does when I try to start it now is grind. I'm guessing the teeth are worn and I need a new starter but I think there's another problem underlying somewhere. Thanks for any help.
did you fix it ? what was the problem ?
 

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I have a 95 k1500 with starter problems. It started out as breaking the outside bolt all the time. We drilled all the way through the block and nutted both sides. It held for a couple years. A few months ago it broke the inside bolt. Replaced it with a new one. Now I'm having problems with them staying tight. The past few days they've been tight but somehow the starter is coming out of place just enough I have to loosen the bolts pull down on it as far as I can tighten them back up then start it. All it does when I try to start it now is grind. I'm guessing the teeth are worn and I need a new starter but I think there's another problem underlying somewhere. Thanks for any help.
you fix it yet ? what was the problem ?
 

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I have no help about the starter issue but i did want to add some information about the Nyloc nuts and melting points (they can melt only at 250+ farenheit), i believe they were developed for use in US Aircraft and although the quoted info below is for zytel (a form of nylon) nyloc nuts, the same information applies to both regular and zytel 103 nyloc nuts (one or the other is specified if necessary):

THERMAL PROPERTIES Most nylon insert locknuts are manufactured from Zytel 101 which has an effective temperature range up to 250 ° F. Zytel 103 has a higher effective range to 350 ° F and can be special ordered for your higher heat applications. The insert is available in a wide range of colors: white, green, yellow, red, orange, purple and blue to name a few. The coloring does not add or take away from the performance and is mainly used to identify the manufacturer. Nylon is the most resistant thermo-=plastic resin today. As temperatures increase, it will retain resistance to softening until the maximum degree is reached at which point it melts immediately. On the other hand, with a decrease in temperature, the tensile strength increases and it will have excellent flexibility allowing locking action to continue even in sub-zero temperatures.

CHEMICAL RESISTANCE Nylon is highly resistant to many oils, diluted mineral oils, organic acids, alkalies, solvents and salt solutions. A list of these are available from your salesperson.

ELASTIC RECOVERY Nylon will try to return to its original shape after the mating thread has been removed therefore the nut can be reused many times. The exact reusability depends on thread roughness, minimum breakaway torque acceptability and other factors.
 

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since I know about this stuff you do not use any fiber type locking nuts in heat area.. what you do is double nut with a washer between the 2 nuts.

the other would be to use a non fiber type locking nut . these are shaped to make torquing on when fastening hard so they do not ever loosen .. used these all the time on electrical fasteners that would get hot.
 
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