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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
the gears in the rear end of my blazer went out yesterday.i pulled the diff. cover off to inspect the damage and found pieces of the bearings.other than that i couldnt find much more damge.

heres where it gets a little tricky..nothing seems to be original on this truck..including the rear axle.it appears to be a 12 bolt from various GM models from 1964-82.i have several options to go with here but want to spend the least about possible.

i have a 77 F250 that ive given up working on for now with a Dana 60 with 4.56 gears.if i were to pull that axle out and put it on the blazer, what complications am i looking at if any?

or i could just rebuild the one in the blazer but im afraid that could get pretty costly..

thanks for any help!
 

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or i could just rebuild the one in the blazer but im afraid that could get pretty costly..
Usually this does end up being the most expensive. However, if you decide to spend the money, you'll be able to rebuild with whatever you want (locker, selectable locker, limited slip)

i have a 77 F250 that ive given up working on for now with a Dana 60 with 4.56 gears.if i were to pull that axle out and put it on the blazer, what complications am i looking at if any?
This might be the cheapest approach, because you already have the axle. I'm not at all familiar with the D60, so I can't comment on most of the complications. The one complications you could face is with the gear ratio. Assuming your Blazer is 4wd, you'll need to make sure the front gear ratio matches the rear. If the front isn't already 4.56, the complication will be that you'll end up rebuilding the front end with 4.56 gears, which could end up making this a more expensive option.

Buying another junkyard axle might also be a good option, if you are willing to settle for a factory axle.
 

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Providing the gears are close in ratio the D60 would probably be the best bet, brake line fittings are a standard size, you'll probably have to cobble up some type of connector for the E brake cable, the spring perch's will more than likely need to be modified, but the D60 is a great axle only slightly less bullet proof than a Rockwell.
You might need to have a custom driveshaft built with the D60 U-joint on a Blazer driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the replies.ill investigate the damage a little more and see what the cost to rebuild is going to be.i realized not long after i posted up that the lugs on the D60 are 8 lug so completely swapping axles may be a bit more of a project than im looking to take on right now.but hopefully i can do the swap later down the road
 

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if you have car quest auto parts stores in your area they can help with the u joint. When i did my swap i was able to get a joint the would adapt my 1/2t shaft to my 3/4 rear.

the d60 is a great choice but you may be able to find a 14B with the same R&P and it will bolt right up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Changing the fronts to 8 lug is pretty easy. Just need new hubs/rotors.
i thought about that but then id have to buy a new set of tires for the 16.5" 8 lug wheels.theyre all in pretty bad shape.the ones i have on the blazer now are in great shape with plenty of tread so id like to just stick with the 15" wheels and those tires
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
if you have car quest auto parts stores in your area they can help with the u joint. When i did my swap i was able to get a joint the would adapt my 1/2t shaft to my 3/4 rear.

the d60 is a great choice but you may be able to find a 14B with the same R&P and it will bolt right up.
i may just look for a 14 bolt like you suggested.so far that seems to be the easiest option i have
 

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if you want a semi float 14 bolt has the 6 lug pattern that will match the front. it has a smaller ring gear and is not a strong as the 14 B flull floater. But it keeps you from changing the front and if you are not a hardcore rock crawler you chould be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yea i dont do the rock crawling thing too much.im a mud kinda guy myself.but good news!i took a good look inside the diff. and the only damage was the pinion bearings and the pinion oil seal.which are cheap part but a bitch to replace as ive found so far..ive got to go to the dentist in the morning but after that ill be back at it and hopefully by tomorrow afternoon she should be back on the street.i really appreciate everybodys help and insight on this
 

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I am pretty sure you will need to cut and reweld the spring mounts and sway bar mounts to make it fit. You might have to get a speacial U joint to make it fit. Make sure the the nose of the rear end is not any shorter or longer than the original or you may have to change your drive line. I put a 14 bolt semi floater 6 lug in my k1500 suburban. I got it on ebay for $600.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am pretty sure you will need to cut and reweld the spring mounts and sway bar mounts to make it fit. You might have to get a speacial U joint to make it fit. Make sure the the nose of the rear end is not any shorter or longer than the original or you may have to change your drive line. I put a 14 bolt semi floater 6 lug in my k1500 suburban. I got it on ebay for $600.
well hopefully the pinion bearing and new seal is all it will take to repair the one on the truck.if that wont work ill look for a cheap replacemeant axle..if i can find one ill either sell the truck before i leave in a month or just let it sit and rebuild the entire drivetrain when i get back to the state in a year
 
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