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Discussion Starter #21
They probably don't list them because either they are not dimmable with that setup or more likely its because the locking base is soldered to the bulb. This would make the bulb and socket one unit.

Below is a bulb and socket base unit. I believe you can buy just those bases without the bulb that allows you to remove the bulb from the base which would allow you to use LED bulbs.


View attachment 166032
I'm almost ready to open up the dash to replace the stereo, when I'm there I'll pop the dash panel out and see what's there. I've got a good stock of wedge LED's to see if they'll work if the panel has a removable base or not. try one at random and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You might try these, I would verify these are the correct ones for your dash, but these should fit more GM clusters that use the smaller 194/168 bulbs.

I've got a fair supply of mini wedge LED's in varying colors and sizes. I swapped out all that I could on several vehicles including my Honda GL1500 which was a bear to get out and in, but it came out really nice, and considerably brighter!
 

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Hey folks, this is an awkward way on to introduce myself to the forum but it's as good as any! I just got rid of a 1997 F(found) O(on) R(roadside) D(dead) F-150 P.O.S. that wasn't worth another minute of my time! I've always been a Chevy truck guy, and as of today I'm back in the saddle with a used 2006 Silverado 1500, extended cab, 5.3L Vortec with right at 125K miles, in excellent condition that I picked up on Craigslist for a very good price! A small power steering fluid leak, and bringing the stereo up to date with Bluetooth are the biggest issues I can find at the moment, but the tachometer being inop is something I'd hope I could get a clue from someone here with. The previous owner said he was told it could be a bad solder joint on the instrument panel. Has anyone seen or heard of this before or have any solid repair for this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_2WnJMsZaU&feature=youtu.be
Cluster repair expert link. He is the best and can fix any instrument cluster problem And put your correct mileage in the cluster so no problems with DMV.
 

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no do not replace. this is a violation of federal law about the odometer..you have no idea what is going on on the dash panel.. you have to take it out and use a magnifying glass to look at al the solder joints.
then set up the low watt soldering iron with the proper tools .. look up a you tube video on how to do soldering work properly and buy the tools..if not then the cost to have the repair shop that does these will cost about 120 bucks.. they will also change the lamps and can make a color change on the lamp color.
Not sure about your state, but this is straight from the odometer disclosure form for the state for NC:
The provisions of this disclosure statement section shall not apply to the following transfers:
(1)A vehicle having a gross vehicle weight rating of more than 16,000 pounds;
(2)A vehicle that is not self-propelled;
(3)A vehicle that is 10 years old or older; or
(4)A new vehicle prior to its first transfer for purposes other than resale.
(5)A new vehicle sold directly by the manufacturer to any agency of the United States in conformity with contractual specifications
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If you are anywhere near Stockton, CA there is an honest shop I can recommend.
Thanks bro, I'm in so-cal. I got the kit but like I mentioned, the damned thing seems to have sprung back to life! Lol, so I have the kit and until something happens and it stops working properly, "If it ain't broke why fix it?!).
 
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