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1994 Chevrolet K1500
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I’m back with more questions. I am learning a lot since my boyfriend REFUSES to work on my Naughty Bitch. So obviously my truck has had to wiring issues. It didn’t seem to when I bought it almost a year ago but 2 days after buying the tranny went out, had that fixed then my CV Axle broke at 78 mph , my rotor split in half and the caliper lodged itself up in the mess , thank god it scared me to death and I was able to control it and not flip it. So fixed that then good lord my tranny went out again.
So, I bought another one and then bought a kit to upgrade my whole suspension. So tranny went it , and front wind fixed.
Well, while it was down I bought a stereo system (Android 10 Headunit) subs , amp , speakers , backup camera. Wellhas a couple people attempt to wire the head unit but no luck .... No power at all , in fact EVERYTHING stopped working. My alarm , remote start , wipers, door locks, reverse lights . You name it it stopped. So I did a lot of reading and Googling and attempted my stereo system myself and I got it to work. Took me 6 days to wire the whole thing. I’ve since rewired the wipers , locks, reverse lights by myself and these things work.
However my system kept draining the battery and after jumping it every day to leave I unhooked it. Well now these android had units have you put the positive wire to an accessory a 12 V accessory the yellow wire to the positive pull of the battery and the ground to the ground on the battery and then my truck would be dad every day. So I did some researching and attempted to hook it up yet a different way and it seem to work but it kept illuminating and would not shut down so my battery was in fact dead. So I once again unhooked the stereo but then wired in a front LED light bar and a rear LED light bar and it’s been fine no drain on the battery. Then on Black Friday it stranded me . Battery was dead , jumped it , started but revved at a high idle (way high) so I shut it off.
Attempted this for two hours before finally giving up and calling the boyfriend. He came and ultimately we went and bought a new battery put it in hooked it up and the charging system was not charging the battery so I bought a 225 amp alternator should be delivered today was wondering if there’s any wire upgrades or anything I have to do in order to install this alternator. Also in my research I’ve noticed that my alternator is wired up a completely different way than the GM diagrams or schematics if I may and the boyfriend says while it was working before so it’s hooked up right well clearly it wasn’t working right because of all the nonsense that’s happened. I found out I do not have a ground strap and the positive wire off the back of the alternator goes to the driver side fender hooked to a relay and the negative wire goes underneath part of the front motor and comes up to the positive poll of the battery and is hooked up there. He says it’s hooked up the correct way because it is grounded to something so it should be fine. I want to hook it up the way the diagram shows and add a ground strap so my truck doesn’t have a grounding issue. I have some photos of it and was hoping someone could tell me how to do it correctly.. Thank You for any help .
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So the common upgrade is called the big 3 up grade. What this does is you add a much larger wire from the alternator positive wire, to the battery positive. Then a wire ( much bigger again) to the frame from the battery negative post and 1 more bigger wire from the battery negative post to the engine block. I also added 2 more negative wires. 1 from the case of the alternator to the battery negative post, and another from the battery negative post, to the cab of the truck. What all if this does, is it gives you a much larger path for electricity to flow. Your alternator will be able to recharge the battery more easley. There are big 3 kits available that are already ready to install, but I made my own. I used #2 welding lead to make mine. A decent automotive audio shop can do this for you, and may even sale you what you need to do this your self. There are a ton of videos on you tube about this up grade, just type in big 3 up grade. To connect this to my battery, I welded 2 3/8 X 1 NC bolts together. Bolt head to bolt head. I used stainless steel bolts. Regular bolts should work fine. Here are a few pics of mine. I know our trucks are a little different, but the up grade is the same more or less. Oh, and the 1 positive wire from the alternator to the battery, need a fuse in it. Mine is 150 amp. I saw big improvements in my electrical system after I did the up grade. It took that to keep up with the electric fans I installed, and like you, I have an amp and a sub with a blue tooth stereo. Also those relays in your pic,
dont look OE to me.
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1994 Chevrolet K1500
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey,
Thanks for your input and knowledge. I did in fact before I jumped back on here look up the Big 3. I just assumed it was for the stereo system only. Did not realize it was a great idea jus for the electrical system. And I also have dual electric fans and I bought a new dual wiring harness with a temperature sensor. I am jus so tired of wiring and feel like I’m getting nowhere. When in fact I actually am. It’s jus frustrating when I can’t go to my boyfriend and say hey what’s up with this can you help.
I also rewired my head unit and spliced into my ignition harness to the accessory 12v and my stereo did not turn on with the key. Hell I have to mess with it to come on and then it takes about 15 min of pushing the button on and off to stay off without powering back up. I’m so lost 😡 And confused.
My dad was always the one to work on my cars , now he’s passed about a year now , So now I’m forced to do it. Boyfriend’s an ass clearly
 

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You are in a good place for help. You may also want to look at www.gmt400.com. that forum is just for GM trucks from 1988 to 1998 body style. There is a ton of info there in these trucks. Electric fans is the reason I did the big 3, or in my case the big 5 up grade. I wanted to improve the charging of my system. It was and is a big help. I will say this though. I really need a bigger alternator. When I am stopped, at idle, ( like at a red light) with my AC on, headlights on, stereo playing, and everything else, the volt meter will fall down to 9 or 10 volts. This is very low, but as soon as I take off, it comes rite back up. It keeps up with my needs, because of the up grade. Without the up grade, it would never keep up with my needs, and drain the battery. Here is what you need to understand, or know about this. Electricity flows like water, ( more or less) a small ditch can only flow a small amount of current. A large river will flow much more current. Same is true for wire size, at least to a point. The wire on the back of your alternator is just big enough to flow just enough current to keep up with your trucks needs as it was from the factory. When you start adding more electrical stuff, you need more current to keep up with more demand. The big 3 does this. Your charging system runs the truck, you battery, is like your gas tank, again, more or less. It is where electricity is stored, more or less, or to a point.
 

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1994 Chevrolet K1500
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You are in a good place for help. You may also want to look at www.gmt400.com. that forum is just for GM trucks from 1988 to 1998 body style. There is a ton of info there in these trucks. Electric fans is the reason I did the big 3, or in my case the big 5 up grade. I wanted to improve the charging of my system. It was and is a big help. I will say this though. I really need a bigger alternator. When I am stopped, at idle, ( like at a red light) with my AC on, headlights on, stereo playing, and everything else, the volt meter will fall down to 9 or 10 volts. This is very low, but as soon as I take off, it comes rite back up. It keeps up with my needs, because of the up grade. Without the up grade, it would never keep up with my needs, and drain the battery. Here is what you need to understand, or know about this. Electricity flows like water, ( more or less) a small ditch can only flow a small amount of current. A large river will flow much more current. Same is true for wire size, at least to a point. The wire on the back of your alternator is just big enough to flow just enough current to keep up with your trucks needs as it was from the factory. When you start adding more electrical stuff, you need more current to keep up with more demand. The big 3 does this. Your charging system runs the truck, you battery, is like your gas tank, again, more or less. It is where electricity is stored, more or less, or to a point.
Hey,
Thanks for your input and knowledge. I did in fact before I jumped back on here look up the Big 3. I just assumed it was for the stereo system only. Did not realize it was a great idea jus for the electrical system. And I also have dual electric fans and I bought a new dual wiring harness with a temperature sensor. I am jus so tired of wiring and feel like I’m getting nowhere. When in fact I actually am. It’s jus frustrating when I can’t go to my boyfriend and say hey what’s up with this can you help.
I also rewired my head unit and spliced into my ignition harness to the accessory 12v and my stereo did not turn on with the key. Hell I have to mess with it to come on and then it takes about 15 min of pushing the button on and off to stay off without powering back up. I’m so lost 😡 And confused.
My dad was always the one to work on my cars , now he’s passed about a year now , So now I’m forced to do it. Boyfriend’s an ass clearly
so let me ask you another question ? Would all this issue I’ve been having with the wiring have anything to do with the alternator ? Jus wondering if my stereo not working correctly if it was bc of the alternator and same with my alarm and remote start. All the wires to the alarm are connected taped zip tied but yet when I put the fuse back in (in the little cluster of fuses for that in particular) the siren goes crazy. And I can’t turn it off . Gotta pull the fuse.
And I will definitely check the website out. I have a lot to learn
 

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It could be because of the alt, but if so, its most likely that the alt is not keeping up with the draw on the system. Also any positive voltage that is being used, has to also go through the grounds on the truck. Electricity flows in a circle. Out of the battery, through the wiring, to whatever is using it, the back through another wire back ti the battery. So the ground wiring is just as important as the positive wire is. Thing is, unlike the positive side, the ground can, and does also flow through the metal on the truck. Good example, when I did my big 5 up grade, the first thing I noticed was how muck faster my wiper worked. Also, another thing to keep in mind, you amp for ypur stereo, has a large positive cable. This should run to the battery. Like most people, untill I learned, the ground for my amp, was where I bolted the amp down to the seat belt bolt. I dis not run another large wire back to the battery for the amp ground. Same thing applies to all grounds. So there is a ground wire that runs to your engine, and a ground that runs to the frame of your truck. I added another ground to these grounds with a #2 welding lead. I used welding lead, because, well, I am a welder Ha Ha. When I looked into doing the big 5 up grade, I got my connectors, and the 150 amp fuse, and fuse holder, from a custom truck shop that also does stereo installs. I asked one of the techs some questions, and told him what my plans were, and that I was going to use #2 welding lead. He asked, what size my amp is, and said for a 800 watt amp, the wire is big enough, and I could even have used a little smaller wire, but when they do the up grade, the use a 1/0 wire. This is a much bigger wire than a #2. I highly recamomd this up grade for not only stereos, but for electric fans, its a must.
 

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Chevrolet is notorious for electrical problems even on my 2013 Chevrolet 2500HD I have random electrical problems. Your in good hands with Kenny I was about to say rewire the whole truck and get a new computer. All of my older Chevrolet trannys always went out on rebuild I put in a beefy torque converter lighter flywheel with a corvette servo shift kit with a transmission oil cooler always seemed to help out alot. But, when I had thoughs trucks I was all gas and brakes. Slowed down alot since then.
 

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All the loose wires maybe an issue later or maybe their just driving me crazy and I need to stop looking also sounds like you need to ditch the BF and Kenny is right about the second ground I run a secondary ground on my 2500HD and my electrical issues slowed down. Still get a power surge from time to time but not as bad.
 

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the battery positive post has small wires on it. the power from the battery has to have a fuse block with a battery sized wire to the aftermarket fuse block .. then install the proper sized fuses to your aftermarket components.. each component has to have the correct amp fuse .
my family member installed a high power audio amplifier .. we installed 2 batteries .. with battery sized wires connected together
added a fuse block to connect to the amplifiers had 3 amplifiers in it .. separate fuses on each amplifier .did it in 2019 .. no problems ..
alternators can fail when too much current is a heavy load .. check how to install a higher alternator output current for your power .. use a amp probe to see how much amperage is being used. check the alternator spec on the current output.. if its too higher or close to the load on your truck you need a higher amp alternator ..
crimping wires will fail.. need to solder wires to connectors under the hood.. use heat shrink to protect the connections .
 

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Sierra 2500HD 4x4 8.1Vortec w/Ally tranny
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Ok, so I’m back with more questions. I am learning a lot since my boyfriend REFUSES to work on my Naughty Bitch. So obviously my truck has had to wiring issues. It didn’t seem to when I bought it almost a year ago but 2 days after buying the tranny went out, had that fixed then my CV Axle broke at 78 mph , my rotor split in half and the caliper lodged itself up in the mess , thank god it scared me to death and I was able to control it and not flip it. So fixed that then good lord my tranny went out again.
So, I bought another one and then bought a kit to upgrade my whole suspension. So tranny went it , and front wind fixed.
Well, while it was down I bought a stereo system (Android 10 Headunit) subs , amp , speakers , backup camera. Wellhas a couple people attempt to wire the head unit but no luck .... No power at all , in fact EVERYTHING stopped working. My alarm , remote start , wipers, door locks, reverse lights . You name it it stopped. So I did a lot of reading and Googling and attempted my stereo system myself and I got it to work. Took me 6 days to wire the whole thing. I’ve since rewired the wipers , locks, reverse lights by myself and these things work.
However my system kept draining the battery and after jumping it every day to leave I unhooked it. Well now these android had units have you put the positive wire to an accessory a 12 V accessory the yellow wire to the positive pull of the battery and the ground to the ground on the battery and then my truck would be dad every day. So I did some researching and attempted to hook it up yet a different way and it seem to work but it kept illuminating and would not shut down so my battery was in fact dead. So I once again unhooked the stereo but then wired in a front LED light bar and a rear LED light bar and it’s been fine no drain on the battery. Then on Black Friday it stranded me . Battery was dead , jumped it , started but revved at a high idle (way high) so I shut it off.
Attempted this for two hours before finally giving up and calling the boyfriend. He came and ultimately we went and bought a new battery put it in hooked it up and the charging system was not charging the battery so I bought a 225 amp alternator should be delivered today was wondering if there’s any wire upgrades or anything I have to do in order to install this alternator. Also in my research I’ve noticed that my alternator is wired up a completely different way than the GM diagrams or schematics if I may and the boyfriend says while it was working before so it’s hooked up right well clearly it wasn’t working right because of all the nonsense that’s happened. I found out I do not have a ground strap and the positive wire off the back of the alternator goes to the driver side fender hooked to a relay and the negative wire goes underneath part of the front motor and comes up to the positive poll of the battery and is hooked up there. He says it’s hooked up the correct way because it is grounded to something so it should be fine. I want to hook it up the way the diagram shows and add a ground strap so my truck doesn’t have a grounding issue. I have some photos of it and was hoping someone could tell me how to do it correctly.. Thank You for any help . View attachment 168223 View attachment 168224 View attachment 168225 View attachment 168226
Just a side note: great job, but I would also wrap the new wires in conduit, to protect from the elements and look cleaner. Have you checked ALL the grounds on your truck, to confirm clean, TIGHT connections?
 
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