[Joe Wyatt]

I have 1985 SUB, 350,700R4/208 TRANNY. First drive started to growl, but it has no problem in od. now it won't drive in 2w only 4w. And when you press on brake, power is not there, it wishes, and kills engine. Also is vapor locking from carb down, takes 30 sec to get gas to carb after this.

Replace fuel pump from mech to electric. tune up of : wires, plugs, cap and rotor. and master cylinder. still does all of the above. We really need this working, ti is our only transportation.

 

[dualdj1]

if you're getting a noise when applying the brakes and it dies, then you most likely have a bad brake booster. You can disconnect the vacuum line to it and plug it, however that will make it hard to brake. But it would work as a temporary as long as you don't go very fast or leave plenty of room to stop. Replace the brake booster asap.

On the trans, it sounds like your prob might be just in the transfer case, but not positive. Not a good deal there. Not sure you'll be able to fix this quickly/cheaply.

When you put the electric pump on it, did you put a regulator on? or is it just a low pressure pump?

 

[Joe Wyatt]

in replacing the tranny/transfer case, with used parts, we found that the rear end was not engaged. opening the rear end we found both spider gears broke in half, replaced the set and tranny, but used original transfer case.
Tranny is working great, and back wheels.

Going to have to replace power booster, and turn idle speed up, half to double foot to keep from too low idle at stops.

 

[NorthportTroller]

Sucks about the spider gears, at least you found that problem. I was going to mention check the t-case linkage. As far as the idle, why do you have to double pedal it? You got a vacuum leak?