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Question for you Suburban gurus...

I recently had a 2" tow receiver installed on my 1999 1500 Suburban. I plan to tow a MINI Cooper on a UHaul car trailer about 800 miles round trip.

The 'Burban does not have a tow package (which I gather form some other forums is more than just a hitch) but I assume that since the towing capacity of ther 1500 is much more than the weight of my relatively tiny car that I should be OK.

My question is mainly about "tips and tricks" of towing... I've never owned a boat or RV so I've seldom if ever towed anything. We're driving to the Dragon in SC and I'll have to deal with both twisty roads AND steep inclines. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated. We'll have access to the trailer the day before we leqave and I was planning on taking it to a large parking lot to practice backing and other slow-speed manuvers (I remember that you actually have to turn AWAY from the direction you want the trailer to go when backing but that's about it).

Thanks!
 

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Ahh! The joys of towing! I love getting out of the open road with a big rig and something in tow! (Tim Allen voice) Argh, arhh, arghhhhhhhh (pounding chest)...


Anyhow, you're towing the MINI? Front wheels up tow dolly? The towing package really involves an under-bumper receiver to be installed to the frame and making certain that you have power connection to lights system installed as well.



I've never towed a car before, I'm all trailers with built-in lights and brakes. There are several members on here who do tow cars, they can answer questions.

The first thing to remember when towing is that your vehicle is a LOT heavier and you need more time to start and stop. Also, don't change lanes too quickly, you're double in length as well. Give lots of room around turns, swing wide if you can. Try not to drive down a dead-end road with no cul-de-sac to turn around in! I just had to back my trailer backwards down a 1/4 mile dirt road because I had no place to turn around.

Other than that, have fun and enjoy!
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1. How much extra room do I need when turning with a trailer?
It's difficult to give an exact distance since it depends on the length of the trailer. With a typical boat trailer, making left turns isn't a big deal. But for right turns, you'll want to compensate at least some, initially, until you can determine how much space you need. With longer trailers, you'll need to "go wide" to some extent like big rigs do so you don't hit a curb with the trailer while in the middle of a right turn. Think, for example, of how a big rig often makes right turns at least one lane over to the left in smaller intersections so the trailer doesn't hit the curb (or a sign or stoplight) as it travels through the turn. You need to apply the same logic when towing a trailer, even though your trailer isn't nearly as long.

2. How much does the typical 3500-pound trailer affect braking distances?
Obviously, the added weight of any trailer is going to affect braking distances significantly in an emergency situation. It's difficult to pinpoint exact distances, since much of it depends on factors like if the trailer is equipped with brakes and how much tongue weight there is. Testing is not commonly performed to determine braking distances with trailers in tow. But, the best way to be safe is to avoid emergencies in the first place. Allow as much space as possible between you and those in front of you. A good place to start is to double the standard "two-second rule" when following behind another vehicle. Allow double the amount of space between you and the vehicle in front of you when towing a trailer. And the heavier the load, the more space you should allow.

3. Why are body-on-frame vehicle designs better for towing than unibody vehicles?
Part of the reason is that you can attach the receiver part of the hitch directly to the frame of the vehicle. On a vehicle with unibody construction, there's not as solid a place to bolt the hitch to the vehicle. With a body-on-frame design you're pulling the trailer with the actual frame of the truck or SUV rather than just having the trailer attached to the body of the vehicle.

4. What can happen if I exceed the tow rating for my vehicle?
The tow rating of any vehicle is based on numerous factors. The best advice is do not exceed the tow rating for any vehicle. If you do, you'll be overloading the suspension, overextending safe braking distances, and experience further reduced and possibly unsafe passing ability. You'll also overextend brake component capacities and, in some situations, encounter premature brake fade. Furthermore, you won't be doing any favors to the engine and drivetrain, and the chance of eventual transmission failure is also possible.

5. What should I do if the trailer starts to sway at a high speed - i.e. if "the tail starts wagging the dog," so to speak?
If you get to a point where you experience trailer sway, it's likely that something else is wrong. The problem could be insufficient tongue weight. If you have a travel trailer, shift heavier items to the front and lighter ones to the rear. With a boat or car trailer, move the vehicle forward. There are also a number of sway-control devices available to stop this condition before it begins. If this condition exists, the trailer and tow vehicle haven't been set up properly. Whatever the case, the first thing is to avoid panic. It's also likely this condition will occur gradually. Don't ignore any first signs of trailer sway. But if it starts, slow down by taking your foot off the accelerator. Let vehicle speed decrease but do not put your foot on the brake pedal, which can make the situation worse. Once you're down to a safe speed, carefully apply the brakes and stop. You should then readjust the load or determine what else might be causing this condition.

6. How do I back up with a trailer attached?
If you've never backed up with a trailer, the first thing we'd recommend is to go to an empty parking lot or somewhere else with lots of space and practice to see what happens when you back up with the trailer attached. Also, don't rely on rearview mirrors. Turn behind and look at the trailer. Basically, when you turn the wheels of the tow vehicle to left, the trailer will go to the right; turn the wheels to the right and the trailer will go left. To control the direction of the trailer while backing up, you need to keep this "reverse action" concept in mind. Oftentimes, you'll also have to pull forward and start over again to position the trailer exactly where you want it. Small and shorter trailers are often more difficult as they react much more quickly to steering wheel input. If possible, it's also very helpful to have a spotter watching at the back of the trailer. If nothing else, they can yell "stop" before you back into something and cause damage to the trailer or any other item. Also, don't forget to look at the front of the tow vehicle, too, because when you turn while backing up, the front of the vehicle could possibly swing out far enough to hit something.

7. When I attach a trailer to my tow vehicle, the tow vehicle sags significantly. What can I do to keep that from happening?
Most trucks are set up to tow and haul, so their suspension probably won't sag when a trailer is attached. Passenger cars and some SUVs have softer suspensions and may need some help. A weight-distributing hitch should be used in these instances. It helps to evenly distribute the weight between the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle. The spring bars of a weight distributing hitch work similarly to the handles of a wheelbarrow, lifting on the back of the tow vehicle and shifting the weight forward. Airbags or air shocks can also help the rear suspension when towing. When in doubt, seek the help of a qualified RV shop.

8. Some minivans such as the Chevy Venture are rated to tow 3,500 pounds. Are front-wheel-drive vehicles OK for towing? How about all-wheel-drive? What are the benefits and detriments of each type of system?
As long as you don't exceed the tow rating of the vehicle, any front-wheel-drive car, SUV or minivan will tow fine. The main consideration with using a front-wheel-drive vehicle as a tow rig is the fact there will be less weight over the drive wheels, which could be a factor in such situations as towing up a steep and wet boat ramp. An all-wheel- or four-wheel-drive vehicle for towing also works fine, but keep in mind that an all- or four-wheel-drive version of any vehicle will usually have a lower tow rating than the same vehicle in a two-wheel-drive version. Obviously, you don't need an all-wheel-drive vehicle or a 4x4 truck for towing a trailer on the highway. If you're thinking about a vehicle purchase and towing is a large reason for buying that vehicle, then a rear-wheel-drive truck or SUV is the best way to go. All- or four-wheel-drive vehicles will tow just as well, but the vehicle will use more gas due to the added weight of the components.

9. If a tire on my trailer suffers a blowout, are there any differences to changing a trailer tire from a vehicle tire?
Not really. Any safety precautions you use to change a tire on a car apply to the trailer, too. Chock the opposite side wheel, use a heavy enough jack to support the trailer's weight and loosen the lug nuts some first before raising the wheel off the ground. That way, the wheel won't spin while it's in the air and you're trying to loosen the lug nuts.

10. Do I need those extra-wide mirrors for towing?
That depends on the width of the trailer. For the average boat or car trailer, you'll likely be able to see down the side of the vehicle and trailer with the factory-equipped side-view mirrors. But for wider trailers, you'll need side-view mirrors that stick out far enough so you see down the side of the trailer. For example, a narrower SUV like an Explorer towing a wider camping trailer might need to be equipped with aftermarket towing mirrors that match the width of the trailer so the driver can see down both sides. In addition, it's illegal to tow without mirrors that don't allow the driver to see down the entire length of the vehicle and trailer. Check your state's laws for specific guidelines regarding towing mirrors.

11. Current full-size Chevy/GMC trucks have a tow/haul mode for the transmission. How does it work and why don't other half- and three-quarter-ton pickups have this feature?
The tow/haul mode found in the current-generation Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra pickups delays upshifts for more effective towing and hauling. The higher upshift speeds and firmer gear changes are due to an increase in line pressure. While other pickups don't have this specific feature controlled by a button on the end of the shifter, we took a look in a 2000 Ford F-150 owner's manual and discovered a similar type of function. Although there isn't a specific control for it, Ford's "adaptive learning strategy" means the transmission "knows" you're carrying a load or towing a trailer and adjusts the transmission's shifting schedule accordingly.



Practice, practice, practice! Good luck and drive safe
 

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Question for you Suburban gurus...

I recently had a 2" tow receiver installed on my 1999 1500 Suburban. I plan to tow a MINI Cooper on a UHaul car trailer about 800 miles round trip.

The 'Burban does not have a tow package (which I gather form some other forums is more than just a hitch) but I assume that since the towing capacity of ther 1500 is much more than the weight of my relatively tiny car that I should be OK.

My question is mainly about "tips and tricks" of towing... I've never owned a boat or RV so I've seldom if ever towed anything. We're driving to the Dragon in SC and I'll have to deal with both twisty roads AND steep inclines. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated. We'll have access to the trailer the day before we leqave and I was planning on taking it to a large parking lot to practice backing and other slow-speed manuvers (I remember that you actually have to turn AWAY from the direction you want the trailer to go when backing but that's about it).

Thanks!
Many people will tell you that you should have a transmission oil cooler, and I would probably be one of them, but considering the distance your traveling, I don't think you'll have to worry about it too much. I would give the vehicle a break about half way there. Plan it so that you have to stop for lunch. This will give the trans a chance to cool a little.
If you intend to do more towing with your burb invest in a transmission oil cooler. The U-haul people will probably be happy to install one for you before you leave. Not too sure about the cost though.

Other than that, I would say that just take it safe, and slow. Once you get used to having the trailer and Mini on the burb you're going to be tempted to step up the pace of your trip. Don't over do it, as this is will not only create more heat for the trans, but also makes an unsafe environment for you, and your fellow drivers.

Have a good trip!
 

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I thought 'burbs come with transmission oil coolers stock. Now I haven't gotten under mine and checked, but I thought this was the case...
 

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If it has one it's going to be integrated with the radiator. I was under the impression it was part of the tow package.
To check for it, open the hood, and look for two steel threaded fittings going in usually under the radiator fill cap, one will be about 3-4inches down, the other about 6-8 inches lower than the first.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow. Awesome advice and tips guys - thanks so much! I'll look for that fitting for the possible transmission oil cooler. :great:

Question on gears - Should I continue to drive in "OD" as normal and then shift to "D" or another gear under certain circumstances?

I'll be sure to take a break midway though to let things cool down - thanks for the advice.

PS - this is the exact hitch that they installed on the rear, yes. It will be pulling a full trailer (all 4 wheels off the road).

 

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It's not recommended that you tow in "OD", but if you're going to be on flat straight roads, and keeping an even medium speed 55-65 you should be fine. If you're going to be on hilly windy roads where your speed is going to fluctuate, you're better off just staying in "D", as this makes the trans work harder having to go in, and out of "OD". The cost savings in gas will be quickly sucked up by costly transmission repairs in the end.
 

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one thing that i did with one of my truck which was the same way,no towing package, was i installed the rece hitch, trailor whiers, trailor break(which i think is a big part of towing) and overload springs and dont haul ass down the road because once you start doing that it is harder to stop which i foud from my own personal experiance. i hope that helps a bit
 
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