[K-dot-789]

Hey guys, I have a 2004 van with the 5.3 engine and was looking to put a turbocharger on it. I've read a lot about the topic, but this being my first build I really have no idea where to start. I've more or less decided on a 70mm turbo, but input on that is welcome also. What a/r should I pick? I'm looking to make around 500whp. Also, what other supporting mods will I need? Anyone have any idea where I can cram all of that tubing??

 

[Zach Smith]

Don't know if the setup below (links at bottom) fits in a van...is it an awd express? Just wondering as 500 is nice and all but, will the drivetrain hold up? Ie what transmission (transfer case) diff(s)
Then if all that holds or is built... Can you actually get that power to the ground? The later 60e trans is only rated for about 325 and from my experience, doesn't handle that long or ...at all. The 65e you get a whopping 380ish and same deal...you can get a built trans or build one but...the 500hp sticker they have on them is for cars, not trucks...you WILL nuke it...may last a little longer than stock though. Some good hints on the trans.. Deep oil pan...BIG cooler. Same with engine. If you have the nvg or np 149 (new process) (same tcase) you are probably OK...although pushing it and beyond it tq rating (engine output+trans multiplication) it seems to handle much greater than specced for, just not with large tires. If you have the bw1372 or 4472 (Borg warner) you will nuke it fast. Then there is the driveline(s) and diff(s). I've got those numbers too but this post is going on forever... Likely you would need to put the diesel or at least 3/4ton drive train behind it then, you may still have some building to do. Map out, ALL your power, then see if you want to go forward. I'm not trying to discourage you...I think its kinda cool, always wanted to slam an and express and give it some grunt but I think you have a lot of "math" to do on this if you want it to make it out of your driveway. Once you have your drivetrain established, then you gotta have some hook (traction) or its kind of pointless to have it in the first place. However...plenty of people go part way...on any/all this and like what they have/while they have it. Just food for thought.

http://www.on3performance.com/shop/...-gm-gmc-1500-2500-return-fuel-system-upgrade/

http://www.on3performance.com/shop/on-3-performance-twin-320lph-universal-fuel-pump-assembly/

http://www.on3performance.com/shop/2007-2013-chevygmc-silverado-sierra-15002500-truck-turbo-system/

 

[Zach Smith]

Almost forgot as to the a/r .63 or somewhere in there would be what I would think...you want that low end to get you moving... You are in a van, like a lightly loaded truck of equal capacity. .63/.82 if you wanted...somewhere in there...I wouldn't go above .82 though....just me.

 

[Zach Smith]

You may get more people responding if there were more details on your van I.e. 1500 2500 3500 awd/ rwd express...all that kind of stuff. You could put all that info in your signature..

 

[RayVoy]

One problem is that not a lot of guys have done this, hence no demand for kits.
Lots of kits for the trucks with full hoods, probably no kits for vans.

 

[K-dot-789]

Hey guys, sorry about the no show for a while, life caught up and I've been busy these last couple months. I totally meant to be more descriptive, I just didn't really think that post out. It's a just a 1500 rear wheel drive. I have plans to upgrade the transmission to a 4l80e and put an AAM 11.5" axle in it once I can get some more info on spring hanger widths, what all I need for the transmission swap, etc. I'll likely tackle the axle and transmission in my driveway, but I want to have a shop do the turbo for the neatness factor, I just want to get my parts planned out going into it. I'm thinking the only spot I'd have room for a turbo is under the passenger seat though, would that be an issue? I'll put that inmy signature now, thanks

 

[K-dot-789]

Also, does a larger a/r give you more high end power, or more low end torque?

 

[Zach Smith]

Also, does a larger a/r give you more high end power, or more low end torque?

Spotty net so I'll answer the simple one first...a/r matching what you are delivering is important.. But general rule smaller a/r more torque (spools faster)... Less top end (flows less total air).

 

[garagerog]

" I'm thinking the only spot I'd have room for a turbo is under the passenger seat though, would that be an issue? I'll put that inmy signature now, thanks"

I've never done a turbo install, so take what I say with a grain of salt. A turbo under the passenger seat? That screams all kind of wrong to me, I assume you mean under the passenger seat floor pan, but even so I can't see any way of defeating cabin heat and noise even with extra insulation. Then there is a matter of clearance, unless your van is lifted, I'm not sure that would work either.

 

[jasons99hoe]

i would buy a diesel express and use the other as a down payment. save you ALOT of time and headache. i love the fact of doing things custom. always custom. however on the other hand if you dont have a full on shop or decent experience with this stuff dont do it. also not to mention LOTS of money and time. research and development aint cheap. i dont want to discourage you but that is a HUGE task you are taking on. your probly gonna have 6-8 grand in the motor alone to put up those numbers and stay alive for years

 

[K-dot-789]

Correct, I meant under the floor pan. Heat might be an issue, but it's an explorer conversion with the ground effects, I don't know if they added any lift, but I have about a foot and a half or so of ground clearance where I plan to put it. Why do you say that I'd have 6-8 grand in the motor, from what I knew 500 hp was nothing for a 5.3, I mean I know I'd need all of the turbo supporting mods like valve springs, beefed-up fuel system etc.. I would love a diesel, but this is a conversion van and I can't get one I like in a diesel. Again, I plan to leave the turbo work to a shop in the long run, I just want to plan my build so I can get the parts together to bring to a shop

 

[K-dot-789]

Also, as for noise, that's acceptable at any level, I have a blazer with 38" super swampers although I'd prefer to be able to talk to my passengers

 

[jasons99hoe]

500 hp isnt hard in a 5.3 but it expensive.

 

[K-dot-789]

Huh, okay, I guess I underestimated the cost as usual, Im usually not off that much though haha, I figured the motor buildup would be around 2 grand if I did the work myself

 

[jasons99hoe]

i say 6 grand because i would use forged rotating assembly and piston rings specific for boost. and yes there will be headwork and fueling upgrade, as well as custom exhaust and manifolds, and cam, then dont forget about tuning. trans is gonna need a couple thousand in upgrades too. building the motor is easy. start pricing it out and you will see it adds up very fast. im one of those guys who likes everything perfect because i dont like re-doing things later i should have done the first time. you might be able to do it for less.

 

[Zach Smith]

I'm with 99, but I spend ALOT of time sourcing, and finding what can go with what from where...I was thinking though (which is usually bad BTW) if you wanted to go under the seat (floorpan) why not cut the pan out? Build a cage (like you would with a trans hump) and insulate that, run some heat shielding, modify your seat brackets and set your seat on new caged turbo hump, effectively dampening sound/heat and adding safety for catastrophic failure, and keeping, some ground clearance in that area?

 

[K-dot-789]

Okay, I see where you're getting that number now. I would consider doing that if it were not for the fact that the top of the seat is currently less than 3 inches from the roof. How much ground clearance should I plan for the turbo to eat up? From the looks of it I'd be comfortable with a turbo there, but I don't know how much room it's going to realistically need so it's hard to judge.

 

[Zach Smith]

Okay, I see where you're getting that number now. I would consider doing that if it were not for the fact that the top of the seat is currently less than 3 inches from the roof. How much ground clearance should I plan for the turbo to eat up? From the looks of it I'd be comfortable with a turbo there, but I don't know how much room it's going to realistically need so it's hard to judge.

Usually they have space under the seat itself... I was talking about putting that space to use, and possibly modifying brackets to shorten the distance between floor pan and seat, effectively giving you the same stock seat height but gaining you some working room underneath. Just a thought anyway...wouldn't be worth it if you were paying someone else to do it I think. As for the rest, Meh, mostly plumbing, but it would be helpful to know your turbo size (actual dimensions) plus heat dissipation distance and the plumbing tube you are running to/from it.

 

[K-dot-789]

Okay, I get what you're saying now. As for a specific turbo, I haven't picked one yet, I'm thinking either Garret or Borg Warner, but any turbos I find from either of them in 70ish mm have an a/r of .80 and up. Can you swap housings to get a better a/r or am I just missing something? I plan to run 3 inch tube to it unless any of you think that's not a good idea.

 

[Zach Smith]

You should take another look at the on3turbo links I posted awhile ago on this thread. I believe it has the turbo you may want, as well as some good info