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Discussion Starter #1
The door locks on my 98 suburban are not operating properly. The first time I press the door lock/unlock switch the locks seem to operate at full power but if I continue to lock and unlock the doors the locks seem to get weaker every time until they dont move at all. Even if I disconnect the actuator from the lock rod, it will still stop working after the 2nd or 3rd time pressing the button. I don't know where to start with this one.

Any Ideas?
 

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All doors or only one door? If only one door I would replace the actuator.
On a 98 I would guess that one or more actuators are getting ready to fail. Just did a couple on my 99 the other day.
HTH
 

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My '99 did this until now they just don't work at all. I figure I need to clean/replace them all, but it's not that much of a financial priority right now for me. When I cools off outside, I plan to pull them all and clean them up to see if it helps, tho I kinda doubt it.
 

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I tried cleaning/tearing apart/lubing the actuators on my 99 - they're toast. From what I found and read, they're not serviceable. A while back, 1aauto had "last years part number" available for about $20/ea.
Like Gryphon, it's not a priority, yet. Besides, I have all those kids to reach across and unlock doors:)

Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
alright well, at first I wasn't convinced that it was the actuators since it was multiple doors. The only ones that work after pressing the button more than once is the driver rear and the rear barn door. I tested the leads and I get a good 12 volts when pressing the switch. I ordered a set of five actuators from 1A auto for $160, not bad. we'll see how that goes. I bought this truck dirt cheap, mechanically she's mint but ALL of the interior accessories have some sort of malfunction; frustrating. i won't sleep untill I get them resolved.

Thanks for the help
 

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Any update? I have a 1999, when I bought it everything worked fine. 1 Week later, NONE of the locks will work. Just the inside switch, the original owner lost the remotes.

No sound , nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I have only had time to replace one actuator but it definately did the trick that lock now works exactly how its supposed to. If you get no power to the locks then check the fuse in the convience center. When I bought my truck I had the same problem none of the door locks worked at all because the fuse was blown. I suspect that the failing actuators caused a current spike which blew the fuse; the same way you can cause a current spike to a motor if you stop it from spinning while there is still power to it. If its the fuse, replace it then check all of your actuators by locking and unlocking them repeatedly. A good actuator should be able to do this pretty much all day long but a bad one will stop working after just a few cycles. If the all work fine then the next culprit is a shorted wire usually inside one of the flex boots between the door and the door jam. I found a short in my power window wiring not in the boot but a little further into the vehicle inside the pillar between the front and rear seats on the drivers side.
 

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I found a way to get the old door actuators to work. There's what I believe to be a PTC inside the actuator housing. I made a solder bridge across it and the actuators, all 5, now work great. Obviously, the PTC is there for a reason - to limit current, so bypass it at your own risk; but it seems to have "aged" to the point that it limits it too much. Here's what I've seen done successfully.
1) remove actuator
2) peel back rubber covering and remove the 4 screws (there's no need to remove the metal stator housing)
4) put the plastic actuator in a vice, the seam should be the portion being squeezed.
5) tighten vice until you hear the glue crack, and it can then be pried apart easily - an old trick I learned years ago for separating glued plastic
6) Remove the plastic geared arm and roller
7) pri off the plastic cover underneath it to expose the connections and bottom of the motor shaft
8) note the metal section with the numbers on it, this is the failing ptc that will be bypassed.
9) rough up the edges on the top part where the numbers are to help solder stick, and do the same across the gap.
10) get a hot solder iron and lots of solder - bridge the gap with solder (or wire if you want to) as shown.
11) reassemble and you're done - saved me big $ for 5 actuators.
See attached pictures. actuator1.jpg actuator1.5.jpg actuator2.jpg actuator3.jpg
 

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