Well, I took out the door panel and disconnected the wire harness to the window regulator motor.
- I put 12V directly to the motor leads and it went up and down wired direct to the battery.
- With a meter, there is +/- 12V at the motor plug while unplugged when switch is operated up and down.
- Bought a new switch module from Autozone ($90)
- New switch will not move the window up or down.

I am lost.

Is there a door and window control module for this model year that is possibly bad?
Does anybody have a wiring diagram?

Thanks.

My guess is the motor is bad. had the same happen to me measured connectors at motor [connected to motor] and had power but no movement gave the motor a good hit and it worked.

internal to the motor is a current limiter , this is how the motor stops on the full up/down . when the motor cannot move the current rises and this internal motor current limiter opens the circuit .

 

My guess is the motor is bad. had the same happen to me measured connectors at motor [connected to motor] and had power but no movement gave the motor a good hit and it worked.

internal to the motor is a current limiter , this is how the motor stops on the full up/down . when the motor cannot move the current rises and this internal motor current limiter opens the circuit .

Thanks. That is good to know.
The thing is I put 12V direct to the motor terminal and it moved up and down reversing polarity.

Next time it happens, armed with a schematics, I will check for 12V at PWR WDO CB 25Amp fuse holder and wire inside the fuse box driver side dash at K-C4 terminal with dark green wire. I did not have any problem with the passenger side window which is being fed by same power source but at terminal A9-C1. See Schematics attached.

If 12V power checked out present during the problem, then it could be the internal current limiter.

 

Thanks. That is good to know.
The thing is I put 12V direct to the motor terminal and it moved up and down reversing polarity.

Next time it happens, armed with a schematics, I will check for 12V at PWR WDO CB 25Amp fuse holder and wire inside the fuse box driver side dash at K-C4 terminal with dark green wire. I did not have any problem with the passenger side window which is being fed by same power source but at terminal A9-C1. See Schematics attached.

If 12V power checked out present during the problem, then it could be the internal current limiter.
View attachment 58763

yes that is correct and why IT is what happened to me. all windows worked but not the driver side... I also had to replace 2 window regulators because of the cables rusting out. GM never greased them with white lithium grease at the factory.

while I am at this every year use silicone spray on the rubber tracks. use a cloth and wipe down the dirt etc. then the windows more much easier.. less stress on motor...

 

I had the same thing happen to me. Window stopped working and then it started again and worked for six more months and died again. Ireplaced the motor and regulator together as if the motor goes chances are the regulator would give out soon. When I took the old one apart it was shot, and the whole unit it easier to do with the motor already hocked up. Hope this helps. Eric

 

I had the same thing happen to me. Window stopped working and then it started again and worked for six more months and died again. Ireplaced the motor and regulator together as if the motor goes chances are the regulator would give out soon. When I took the old one apart it was shot, and the whole unit it easier to do with the motor already hocked up. Hope this helps. Eric

Thank you Eric.

One thing I did not mention in my troubleshooting steps was I bought a new Dorman window regulator from Autozone after installing the new switch module.
The new window regulator did not even move when the new switch was pushed up and down. So I returned both the new switch and the new window regulator.

When I put everything back together so the wife can drive it, the window started working again.
Since I have now an electrical diagram, I can tackle this issue when it shows up again.

 

Jumping in on this older thread with a similar problem as described here. 2001 Suburban, drivers side window not working. With ignition switch on, I have 12 V on one side of the PWR WDO CB 25Amp fuse holder and wire inside the fuse box driver side dash at K-C4 terminal with dark green wire (I make an assumption that the K-C4 terminal is the group of wires coming out just below where the PWR WDO CB 25 Amp fuse is, and there is only 1 dark green wire).

I do not have 12 V at the dark green wire C1-F on the switch (nor continuity between the K-C4 terminal dark green wire and the C1-F dark green wire with power off). I am assuming that those two dark green wires are the same wire and should have continuity. I took a loose wire and directly connected those two points, turned power on, and the window worked fine (switch fine, motor fine, regulator fine), so my assumption is that this dark green wire is broken somewhere along the line between the fuse box driver side dash and the switch - but seems so unlikely that there would be a wire failure. If that's my problem, need to either find and repair the break or find a way to get a new wire snaked from the fuse box to the door - which seems really complicated and hard to do since means unwrapping the harness, and worse, most of the wire is not accessible. Wondered if any suggestions on how to either re-wire this without causing more harm than good?

I also thought about just jumping from a 12 V source within the switch (or the whole switch module) on the driver door to the dark green wire location on the switch, which would effectively bypass the PWR WDO CB 25 Amp fuse, but wonder what safety or fire hazard i'd be causing.

Would be nice to get the window working again - and appreciate any suggestions on this, sounds like there are others who have dealt with this issue before. Thanks in advance.

 

Jumping in on this older thread with a similar problem as described here. 2001 Suburban, drivers side window not working. With ignition switch on, I have 12 V on one side of the PWR WDO CB 25Amp fuse holder and wire inside the fuse box driver side dash at K-C4 terminal with dark green wire (I make an assumption that the K-C4 terminal is the group of wires coming out just below where the PWR WDO CB 25 Amp fuse is, and there is only 1 dark green wire).

I do not have 12 V at the dark green wire C1-F on the switch (nor continuity between the K-C4 terminal dark green wire and the C1-F dark green wire with power off). I am assuming that those two dark green wires are the same wire and should have continuity. I took a loose wire and directly connected those two points, turned power on, and the window worked fine (switch fine, motor fine, regulator fine), so my assumption is that this dark green wire is broken somewhere along the line between the fuse box driver side dash and the switch - but seems so unlikely that there would be a wire failure. If that's my problem, need to either find and repair the break or find a way to get a new wire snaked from the fuse box to the door - which seems really complicated and hard to do since means unwrapping the harness, and worse, most of the wire is not accessible. Wondered if any suggestions on how to either re-wire this without causing more harm than good?

I also thought about just jumping from a 12 V source within the switch (or the whole switch module) on the driver door to the dark green wire location on the switch, which would effectively bypass the PWR WDO CB 25 Amp fuse, but wonder what safety or fire hazard i'd be causing.

Would be nice to get the window working again - and appreciate any suggestions on this, sounds like there are others who have dealt with this issue before. Thanks in advance.

RickG,
Please let me know your outcome, I have THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM. Did you find a break? Where did you find it?

Thanks

 

It is common for wires to break inside the boot between the door and body

 

Thanks RickG - this did not fix my issue. If anybody has any ideas, please make a suggestion:

My driver's side window stopped working about a month ago. Immediately I switched out the power window regulator after making sure I had voltage at the motor connector and at the button switch. After I replace it, the window worked fine for about a week. Prior to stopping altogether, when raising the window it would pause three times when going from all the way down to the all the way up position. The the motor stopped working again. I got a replacement from the company I ordered it from and that did not work. I bought one locally from a parts place and that did not work. I get anywhere from 11.34 - 11.84 voltage at the plug that plugs into the motor when I turn the ignition key to accessories and move the window button to either the up or down position. I get power in the plug that goes into the back of the master switch. I have tried running a different ground from the motor to the car chassis, that did not work. I am at a loss. I have two different regulators but neither works. Any suggestions?...

 

When my window went I did the same but also bought the drivers side door window switch. After I had to take the old one and the new one to get the power mirrors pull in op. and to make the heated windows to work. Had to take the new top and clean all the contact points for it all to work. I hope this helps and you fix it...........Eric