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Discussion starter · #21 ·
From the beginning , before coming here I went to a few locksmiths , then call more , also called dealer --- no one of these was cheaper that around $200 .

So no matter how many people / repeat $20 - does not change things at my end , so the reason for removing lock cylinder .

So for you folks who say $20 , give me your dealers contact info [ after you have called & or done this ] ?

Those that keep saying get a key for $20 , are the one arguing - as if I have not tried !
 
Understand this: you can not buy a key that will work for $20, stop wishing for the impossible.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
That's what I have been saying !

And still no answer to the question - disconnecting the cable ?
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
That's why I'm asking here , more direct , or at least I was under the impression [ apparently wrong ] it was a shorter route .
Or at least help to a shorter search on youtube [ need to know what the cable does , or what to call it in the youtube search ] .
Been there done that also , but without the correct term , it's many hours of time spent looking .
 
steering wheel lock. maybe. is about the only thing I can think of but I have never worked on this era of truck. follow the cable to whereever it goes. disconnect the other end.

that looks a lot different than the gmt400's. on my old trucks the key is the only way to do anything to the ignition, it doesn't really come apart like this.

let us know how you make out. as far as I know these trucks ignition keys have to be programmed and there is no way around it.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
I made a spare key last yr. , does not have a chip , no programing required .

Then when I lost my regular key , couldn't find the copy , doggey-dew .
 
You started this 3 days ago, that's all ready "many hours spent" and you still want to remove it.

I've spent 3 days trying to tell you not to remove it, one of us is going to give up after this post.

For the last time, if you remove the lock assembly and take it to a locksmith, he has 2 choices.
1 - if you give him the VIN he can cut you a key that works with the security system.
or
2 - if you do not give him the VIN, he can cut you a key that will not work with the security system until you get the security system reprogrammed to work with this key.

In case #1, you do not need to remove the lock assembly and you will have a key that works.

In case #2, you need the lock assembly so he can cut a key that works with the cylinder; but, and for the last time, it will not work with the security system, and the truck will not run.

In case #1, cost: $200

In case #2, cost: $50 for key and $200 to reprogram the security system.

Or, if you try key #2 without programing the security system, it will cost you $50 for the key and $300 to #500 to fix the security system.

Your choice, I'm done.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
No security system , for key , the spare copy worked , but lost also .

So I guess forums groups nowadays are not populated by techs , just social groups ?

3 days and most do not reply to the question , - this is turned into " kill the messenger " , and all those giving non answers - so not most will be pissed of at me - imagine you asked a question and mostly no answers , or one that did not apply ?

Not a chipped key , and no answer to disconnecting cable , if that cannot be fathomed , oh well .

So the cheapest is ebay about $85 for lock cylinder - ignition & 2 door keys - then I'll drill out the old cylinder .
 
If you had told us someone disabled the security system we could have cut to the chase. If you do not have the security system activated you can use a plain key.

As I said in an earlier post, there is probably a clip that holds it on. Look close and you may see it, or throw up some pictures with a better, bigger close up.
 
Here, I found this for ya:

After removing the lock cylinder turn the mechanism with something back to the park/lock position. There is a rectangular shaped indentation inside the hole where the lock cylinder came out of. Turn that back to the off position. Then the cable is supposed to just slide out. Insert the new cable and then rotate the mechanism back to the run position. Replace lock cylinder.

Hope it helps

It appears Al's suggestion of being part of the Park lock is correct.
 
1999 to 2007 GMT 800 do not have a transponder in the key the design at that time was same as the 1996 up GMT400 and the transponder was in the column on the lock cylinder. Just get a key cut with the VIN and your good to go.
 
Red, your post made me do some digging, I owe @bsname an apology, the transponder is in the Passlock III system, used in later vehicles.
Your vehicle uses the Passlock I, or II, which does not have a transponder.

However, I still believe going to a locksmith with your VIN is the cheapest way to get a new key cut. I know your Idea of taking the cylinder assembly to the locksmith will work; but you will have to pay for the time he spends working with the cylinder to make the necessary key pattern.
 
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