I thought the manual said 100k fluid change for normal service. 50k for heavy duty and towing.

What are your plans for the truck long term? How does the fluid/level look?

 

I thought the manual said 100k fluid change for normal service. 50k for heavy duty and towing.

What are your plans for the truck long term? How does the fluid/level look?

I thought the manual said 100k fluid change for normal service. 50k for heavy duty and towing.

What are your plans for the truck long term? How does the fluid/level look?

Thanks, long term it's a keeper. Just checked fluid and it'sa tad low - just below HOT range. Fluid is pretty bright red; not burnt (dark red).

 

So some things to consider, what is the current fluid condition.

Is the fluid dark, is it burned, does it smell burned, does the transmission have any problems? slipping, harsh shifting, etc.

If the fluid is fairly clean and not burnt and the transmission currently has no problems then the risk of having problems servicing it is much lower.

I do not recommend you flush it, do a drain/fill and a new filter if you decide to service it.

Now the risk is there, but you already know the outcome if you choose not to change it. There has been many success stories of people changing at 120-130,000+ miles and other have had bad luck.

The way I personally see it is if it fails after changing the fluid it was going to fail either way. In the end it is up to you to decide which risk you want to take. I am going to take the risk of changing the fluid on my 03 S10 with a 4L60E with over 130,000 miles because the fluid is not dark or burned and still has pink red to it and the transmission shifts smoothly.

Pull the dipstick out and wipe it on a clean paper towel and share a picture of it here.

 

So some things to consider, what is the current fluid condition.

Is the fluid dark, is it burned, does it smell burned, does the transmission have any problems? slipping, harsh shifting, etc.

If the fluid is fairly clean and not burnt and the transmission currently has no problems then the risk of having problems servicing it is much lower.

I do not recommend you flush it, do a drain/fill and a new filter if you decide to service it.

Now the risk is there, but you already know the outcome if you choose not to change it. There has been many success stories of people changing at 120-130,000+ miles and other have had bad luck.

The way I personally see it is if it fails after changing the fluid it was going to fail either way. In the end it is up to you to decide which risk you want to take. I am going to take the risk of changing the fluid on my 03 S10 with a 4L60E with over 130,000 miles because the fluid is not dark or burned and still has pink red to it and the transmission shifts smoothly.

Pull the dipstick out and wipe it on a clean paper towel and share a picture of it here.

Thanks! Appreciate the thoughts. The fluid is clean, on the pink-ish side and definitely not burnt. I've had this vehicle for its entire life, so I know the history. In it's early days I towed a boat periodically but not every week or month.Transmission is solid, no slipping or harsh shifting. Mileage is 126,300. When I checked it just now it was a tad low (below HOT range). I'm wondering about draining and replacing fluid as I'm not sure I'm up for pulling the pan to get to the filter. That process of jacking the transmission to get to the filter seems pretty involved (at least for me). What do you think of a simple fluid change without pulling the pan?

 

Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is NOT made to last forever. GM put just enough thought into it to get it through warranty, after that its your problem. Look at all the auto repair shops out their and how many specialize in automatic transmissions? A lot right. If you think this is propaganda put forth by the suppliers of ATF to sell more fluid, think again. According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced.

 

Bought my 2000 Silverado at 250k in 2011. Unknown transmission history, so let sleeping dogs lie. Transmission went at 450k 10 years later.

Bought my 2004 Suburban at 177k in 2017. Unknown transmission history, so let sleeping dogs lie. Transmission went at 200k less than 2 years later.

Check your fluid. If it's dark and starts to smell burnt, start socking away money for a trans...

Just my 2 cents.

 

I like the Valvoline full synthetic ATF. I have run it in all my vehicles with great results.

 

I would change the filter and the fluid (or pay for it) if you're worried about it. Your fluid is fine. The transmission behaves normally. Your mileage isn't atrocious. I don't see anything that screams "Catastrophic failure" if you change the fluid.

 

50,000 and 100,000 for the '09; but it does, from the factory, use Dexron 6

 

im going to service mine using O'reilly's Dexron VI.

Do you vehicle a favor and pick a well know brand over the dime store brands. It’s no different and no better than the lowest cost lubes for sale anywhere.

 

Nothing wrong with O'reilly's Dexron VI, running it in my Toyota, my sister is running it in her Toyota.

If it meets Dexron VI specifications and is licensed/approved by GM/Dexron then it literally is just as good if not better than OEM transmission fluid.

What you should be worried about instead is servicing the transmission at decent intervals.

 

Keep in mind that if it says Dexron 6 and has the GM spec number displayed on the container, it meets GM certification.

 

The prevailing opinion of most is "oil is oil" and the cheapest oil/atf just meeting the spec is perfectly fine. While GM dexon/dexos specifications play an important role in setting minimum standards, it also encourages producers to go no farther than meeting those minimums. Few oil companies are willing to spend more time and money to create higher levels of protection when all they have to do it meet the minimum standard. The big box store brand might meet the minimum standards for the listed application but no one really knows where the product really lies beyond the minimum standard. Stick with a brand name, the store brands are contracted out to low bidder and often shortcuts are taken in order to meet the low price.

It's kind of like the old saying about what do you call the person who graduated last in their class from medical school? A Doctor!

 

Guys,

Looking for thoughts / advice on a transmission fluid change... My 2004 Denali XL (6.2 L) has about 130K miles on it. Runs great but transmission fluid has never been changed. I called a dealer I know and they advised that after 130K miles and no issues that I might be asking for trouble. Said they use a pressurized system that may cause issues and would not do it. Further they said if there were no issues now that I may be creating some. In other words, let sleeping dogs lie.

Bought this new lonbg ago and have no issues currently with the transmission. Just doing some overall maintenance and cosmetic work to keep this is great shape.

Thoughts?

They are right, if it is working fine and the fluid looks clean and red, don't do anything. If you have to, have them do a flush with the machine.

 

Guys,

Looking for thoughts / advice on a transmission fluid change... My 2004 Denali XL (6.2 L) has about 130K miles on it. Runs great but transmission fluid has never been changed. I called a dealer I know and they advised that after 130K miles and no issues that I might be asking for trouble. Said they use a pressurized system that may cause issues and would not do it. Further they said if there were no issues now that I may be creating some. In other words, let sleeping dogs lie.

Bought this new lonbg ago and have no issues currently with the transmission. Just doing some overall maintenance and cosmetic work to keep this is great shape.

Thoughts?

I wouldn’t even think twice about doing a tranny fluid change if your tranny is still shifting fine @ 130K. You’ll get another 130K out of it and then need a tranny rebuild in 10+ years from now for a max of $1,500 to $2,000, in TEN years from now. Wouldn’t drive it too rough and you’ll be just fine. The tranny flush window passed back @ 70-80K on the odometer. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Especially on the GMT800 transmissions. It’s still got half the life left in it.😎

 

Just an 'old schooler' here trying to learn something new .... but in years past it was more or less the theory that if a tranny had a lot of miles on it and was doing OK on old fluid, then to change the fluid was asking for trouble. Reason being that over time the tranny builds up dirt and junk all through the tranny as the fluid ages and loses it's cleaning properties.

Changing to new fluid was seen as adding new cleaners (in the fluid) which would start washing everything down inside the valve body, etc, and the dirt/crud would then be free to move around inside the tranny with the fluid.

In fact I can remember years ago some would actually drain the old fluid, drop the pan to change the filter, then strain/filter the old fluid and add it back into the tranny with the new filter rather than add new fluid with new cleaning agents.

Of course, back in those days it wasn't often suggested/recommended to change auto tranny fluid anyway. I realize that fluids have been much improved, the trannies themselves and their lifetimes have been increased, and filters are much better, so I'm not sure if the old issues still apply.

Somebody enlighten this old man ........ hell no I'm not looking to change my tranny fluid, I'm just asking. I'm much too old and worn out for that. Besides, at my age, my tranny will likely out live me anyway. jj

 

Synthetics , closer tolerances and better filters have really helped

 

I have one question, directed at no one in particular:

Would you treat the engine the same way?

 

Oh yeh, I forgot to mention ..... my 2014 1500 is already promised to RayVoy when I go, so the tranny will be his problem then!!! LOL! jj

 

So, what is it about transmissions, seems guys are obsessed with motor oil changes every 3,000 miles but when it comes to the transmission (which ONLY transfers all the power through the drivetrain & driveline) it's OK to ignore it.

 

I flush my 4L60E in my 2003 1500 every 50k using this method. I use 3 gallons of Dextron 6 (Oreilly's brand or Valvoline) and the transmission shifts much smoother afterwards. I have 240k miles on my transmission. Your mileage may vary.

 

Do you change the filter?

 

My 01 Suburban K1500 had 130K when I bought it 12 yrs. ago in mint condition. Trans has a drain plug so I changed the fluid without pulling the pan, also both differentials and transfer case. You only get about 1/3 of the fluid out of the trans so I did this 3 times about 500 to 1000 miles apart. Have done this again at 160K after 10 yrs. Although it may have come with Dexron 3 I only use the latest fluid, now Dexron 6 synthetic. I don't worry about the filter, the pan is a bitch to get off. If the filter clogs the trans is toast anyway. At 170K no issues. The pan is not coming off until the trans dies, it's a keeper so I will just replace the trans when the time comes. Don't expect that to be anytime soon.

 

2 Drain method from a GM service bulletin assuming a clean transmission.
Get trans up to operating temps, drain pan and refill but do not change the filter. Refill pan and drive it around normally for minimum 1/2 hour just to be sure it's shifted through all the gears and warmed up thoroughly. You just want to circulate it through the torque converter and cooling system. You don't need to wait any longer than that before doing the second drain and refill. Change the filter before the second refill.

 

Guys,

Looking for thoughts / advice on a transmission fluid change... My 2004 Denali XL (6.2 L) has about 130K miles on it. Runs great but transmission fluid has never been changed. I called a dealer I know and they advised that after 130K miles and no issues that I might be asking for trouble. Said they use a pressurized system that may cause issues and would not do it. Further they said if there were no issues now that I may be creating some. In other words, let sleeping dogs lie.

Bought this new lonbg ago and have no issues currently with the transmission. Just doing some overall maintenance and cosmetic work to keep this is great shape.

Thoughts?

Just change it put new wix filter in use rubber gasket then top up you will have some metal on magnet but that
Is normal screw that pressure flush crap

Find a maniac that will just change it screw the stealership.

 

I'm a Royal Purple Guy. And a wix filter. One ounce of Sea Foam Trans per quart. My '98 s-10 just rolled over 200K. The body on the other hand is not good Wisconsin winters love to eat cars and trucks.