Me personally i would pull the starter and take it to a local parts store to get it tested. That will tell you if it is bad or not.

 

I've been told I might have to reset the Passlock system. How do I do this ? Would at least like to try this first as the starter was performing flawlessly and I had no other symptoms prior to the "no start" issue I have now. The truck electronics perform like they always have. It just won't start, ie, won't crank at all.
Thanks.

 

Doesn't a Passlock system have a Security light in the instrument panel? If it's lit, I'd agree it's a possibility. How about your cable connections....any corrosion?

 

I thought Passlock only discontinued fuel flow. The engine should still crank in that case. Sounds like a starting circuit problem to me. I've attached the wiring schematic for reference. Besides the battery, you could have a problem with a fuse, a relay, or the ignition switch. Clean the battery posts and check the ground wire on the engine block also.

 

Ignition and starter relay function checked and operating ok. Battery and connections are new.

2 things....starter doesn't make a sound when you try to crank. Can hear relay in power station under hood click when you key ignition. Fuel pump runs, And, when you key ignition to on position, "Battery light" illuminates, flashes once and stays on. Same spot where IP would read "Security". Prior to this happening, no problems with the electrical system what so ever. Remotes still work as normal. Starter just won't crank.

I've tried several times to run "Re-learn" procedure, but security light won't illuminate. The only time it comes on is when you first get in the truck it flashes, which would indicate to me that it's functioning like it's supposed to ??

Where does the starter get its ground from? I've verified that the "purple wire" coming out of the under hood power station is getting 12 volts when you key the ignition. According to the wiring diagram, the purple wire supplies the starter with 12 volts when key is in start position.

I just can't imagine the starter dropping dead and not even making a sound when you key the ignition. I guess it happens.. Any thoughts?

I'm stuck unless I can trouble shoot the starter on the truck for proper function? If I can do that and prove the starter is bad, I'll change it. Picture work showing starter removal would be appreciated too if anyone's got it.

Thanks for the help this far...V1

---------- Post added at 07:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:10 AM ----------

Me personally i would pull the starter and take it to a local parts store to get it tested. That will tell you if it is bad or not.

Mike,

Where might I get picture work showing how starter bolts up? Would be helpful going into the job of removing it. I think I'm headed in that direction if it's determined that my Passlock system is not to blame.
Thanks. V1

 

The starter is on the passenger side as you know. I looked for a while for a picture of this and couldnt really find anything. However it should be just 4bolts that hold it to the tranny, and undo the wiring and you are done. Sorry i cant offer more help.

 

Went out this morning with a plan of attack....figured I had ruled out the Passlock system malfunction. My focus was gonna be on the neutral safety switch and the starter itself. Just for grins...I put the key in the ignition and low and behold it cranked and fired right up....Ok, so now I'm thinking maybe a dead spot in the starter. I didn't want to disturb too many things at one time, as it would be difficult to determine what I had done to fix the porblem.

I crawled under and figured I'd check the first simple thing first, the master ground from the battery to the block just above the oil pan on the driver's side. It took a good turn and a half to tighten it up! Loose ground !! I've since washed and waxed it, fired it up and shut it down a dozen times and I'm confident I've found the culprit. Love the easy stuff!

Hope my experience helps someone else out there. If you can eliminate the Passlock system malfuction, ECM/Ignition relays, Battery connections and grounds should be your next check to ensure everything is tight. Simple stuff first.

Thanks to all who chimed in with helpful advice. It's appreciated.

V1

 

I have a 2005 suburban 5.3 that has a problem that occurs about every 3 months. I go to start the truck and all of the electronics/electrical accessories (windows, door locks) are dead. No cranking from the engine, the 12V accessory outlets have power.
I put on my portable jump starter and viola...engine starts. Let it run and charge the battery and we are good to go until the next time. Essentially, the battery had drained in a matter of 2 hrs, after my wife had dropped of the kids at school.
Does this also sound like a loose connection? I took the truck to two independent shops, had the battery and charging system checked. All ok.
Any thoughts??

Thanks, Tom

 

Check all connections first. Can't emphasize this enough. My history of problems started with loose battery connections, (see my old post about "power outtage"). Possibility that when you put the charger on the battery you're creating an "arc over" that temporarily remakes the bad connection in the electrical system. I would suggest getting into the secondary fuse panel under the hood and methodically pulling, testing and cleaning the fuses of any corrosion. Just my .02 but you've got to start somewhere until someone who has experienced this type of intermittent problem hands you the silver bullet..

 

Ok I have a similar issue with my 2007 2500 HD. About every six months the thing is dead. The lone explanation I've had from the dealer is that I accidentally pushed the rooftop light actuator button. Not likely but that's what they told me (twice). Last occurrence was in Feb. of this year and since I have been manic about that button. Well last week went to go somewhere and the truck was deader than a doornail. I had to jump it and drove to the dealer. Told them it was not the button so I didn't want to hear that as an explanation. They had it for nearly three days and couldn't find anything. I think this was the fourth occurrence and it seems to be every six-seven months. Hard to track a pattern that is so infrequent. What are they or I missing? I will check all battery connections etc. but am not too optimistic. I'm guessing in Feb. or March of next year I'll have a dead truck again.

ltobvious

 

Well the ugly "Won't start" monster raised its head again today. Turn the key and nothing out of the starter what so ever. I think it's time to pull the starter and bench test to attempt to confirm a dead spot or malfunctioning starter solenoid.

 

Problem solved. Installed a new Powermaster starter about a month ago and not a no start since. Seems the OEM had a dead spot in either the solenoid or the brushes where they contact the stator. +1 for the Powermaster. Posted for those of you who might be experiencing the same problem. Dropped the old starter and had the new one up, (after cleaning and lubing the wire ends), in less than 50 minutes. A little trickey getting the starter out of the trans bell, but other than that a piece of cake. Ya gotta love reliability.. LOL..

 

Articulate and informative. I am going to investigate these clues in the morning since my symptoms are the same. Thanks for sharing.

 

I have been surfing the internet to no avail on the intermittent non start no crank issue. Mine is a 2000 Tahoe Old Style Z71.

Starter replaced twice -- battery and alternator new. My battery is not dead, no Security light on dash on nor flashing. Lights/dash lights do not dim when I turn the key. Turn key, get nothing. No crank, no dimming of lights. Next day, turn key, truck fires and runs normally.

So mine is an intermittent no start no crank battery good issue. Check engine light not on.

My mechanic has had it a bunch of times, no problem found -- replacing starter seems to fix ... until it does it again. I am leaning toward bad relay for ignition -- or bad ignition switch -- cannot find if bad ignition parts relay/switch would lead to NO CRANK situation like I have.

 

Further research has me leaning toward bypassing (shorting) the Neutral Safety Switch.

 

when the ignition is to crank the solenoid should click . with no click then I would check that the ignition switch is good. can also be alarm system that was in the vehicle and the wiring got hacked up.

the NBS 2000 chev trucks have a relay that sends 12 volts to the solenoid. not sure what you got in the OBS...

I would run another wire down on the starter solenoid . then have this placed in the engine bay. with the key to crank see if you have power on this wire.. no power then put 12volts on it see if it cranks.. that will rule out any starter issues. now its in the ignition switch or neutral switch . neutral switch move shift level when in crank see if it reacts...