Sorry, mis-read.

Any idea why it bent?

 

Not yet I just started tearing into it

 

rotate engine so the springs are not loaded.. then rotate again when the others are not loaded.
you should have to follow the head change procedure,, add ball torque procedure and need certain bolts replaced ..I forget what the specific bolts require replacing .. I think the biggest bolts ...
bent rod just one.. rocker arm issue. oil problem..

 

once I get it off if I change all the lifters and replace the bent push rod will I be good to go??

Wow. Got some work ahead of you. That lifter, cam lobe and rocker arm took a bad hit. It is not recommended to change out new lifters on an old camshaft. Reason is that the lifters and cam take a surface set to each other and new lifters on an old cam will have mismatched surfaces. One will wear faster than the other but you may get by for awhile. Check all of those lifters for uneven wear to determine camshaft condition. Also like Jcat says look for any rocker arm oil failure condition.

 

Ok thank y’all. I got the head off now and ima try to look and see if I see anything that don’t look right. I’m not a mechanic by any means but hopefully I’ll be able to tell if something looks different or broken comparing it to the rest of em

 

How did you conclude you had a bent push rod?

 

I took it apart and couldn’t get the pushrod out so I took the head off and had to pull it out from the bottom and it’s bent to hell

 

Push rods don't bend on their own, usually a valve and it's piston got a little too close

 

It sat up for a couple years and I had to change the fuel pump it sat up so long. I’m hoping it was the bad gas that was the main reason this happened

 

Bad gas won't bend anything, maybe someone over rev it.

But, you have more than a bent push rod, check it's valve, it will probably be bent.

 

Reminds me of the days when I buzzed stock small blocks towards 7200+ (or heavy valve float whichever came first) to get whole motors replace.
Couldn't handle 305's in Z-28's and heavier vehicles. 350 or nothing!

Oh by the way, I was called "Ricky Rev Up". Made small blocks sound like Indy cars since warranty auditors gave me so much chit changing every little part.

Enjoy some of my handy work.

 

I checked all the valves none were bent and now it’s back together and it’s running a lot smoother and better. But the check engine light came back on and it still says po300 random cylinder misfire. And it kinda feels like it missing a lil bit. So ima do compression test like was mentioned above. The book says 7 compression strokes. How long do you think that is in time turning the key while doing the compression test

 

Also when you do compression testing on any motor, have the throttle blades wide open to get "all the available air".
Also it puts the fuel injection into lean mode, but you might get a little fuel past a partial clogged up fuel injectors

By the third compression stroke will tell you everything. If you have to get to 7 rotations to get a compression reading, the final 4 should fill the last 5 to 10% of the compression reading.

Also make sure the fuel injection is inoperative. The fuel will wash away the oil on the cylinder walls and give you a phony reading.

For me, smells like a fuel injection / intake manifold seal issue coming over the horizon.

 

I put new intake gaskets in it. I had bought the whole gasket kit came with a lot of ****. So I changed all the seals I could that came with it

 

Could fuel injectors cause it to do this. I know when I changed the o rings on the fuel injectors the rail and some of the injectors had rust in em. I cleaned em out the best I could.

 

My question is, ...did you torque "ALL" bolts / fasteners on the intake "assembly", …or just the intake bolts???

Second, if you had "rust" in the fuel channel, or in the injector itself, the injector is trash. You "CANNOT" clean microscopic particles of rust out of any fuel injector. Also plugs up the internal screen within the fuel injector itself. There is "NO" chemical to dissolve rust particles. If there's rust further up the line and cannot be cleaned out, ...those fuel parts have to be changed also.

Third part, ...did you use a o-ring lubricant on those fuel injector seals or just pushed them in dry???

 

I torques the intake bolts. Back to the engine torques the rocker arms and head bolts And I used assembly lube just a small amount on the o rings so I didn’t tear em I was worried about the rust but there like 70 bucks a piece and there’s eight of em. I don’t know how to tell which ones need to be replaced. That’s a lot of money to change all the injectors especially if that doesn’t fix the problem

 

Well that separates the men from the boys.

Having the visual skills to make calls on what people find in inspection helps a whole lot. Prepping to clean the fuel system is a bit*h. The fuel lines "before" the fuel injectors have to squirt out clean fuel Anything that appears on a white napkin type filter even to the smallest speck is a threat to a fuel injector.

If rust is coming from fuel rails, octopuses, or any other part of the fuel delivery system that rust has to be eliminated. Either by flushing or replacing the part. But you gotta find the source of the rust. Something metal, ...not plastic or aluminum.

Trashing out 8 fuel injectors, ...seen that a lot in my career.

You can replace one fuel injector but don't be surprised if another one fails behind it. The most important thing is to "clean out "all" the rust" or start replacing stuff in the fuel delivery system "after" the fuel filter. ...But is super rare to replace anything beyond the fuel rail system..
It's mostly fuel rails and delivery systems. Once that's clean, change all the fuel injectors "unless" you have garage or shop that can "flow" fuel injectors. All 8 injectors have to flow within a few percent of each other. The one thats flowing out of the normal flow rate is the suspect fuel injector. That is your only option.