Seems easier to drop the tank, since you're going to replace it anyway? I've dropped my '94 to replace the fuel pump (maybe do that too!) and also a 2000 Yukon. Both had gas in them since I couldnt time it to be almost empty as they had both quit running. Run it down, and it'll be that much easier/lighter. Have a gas can on hand if you run out.... iirc, just a few bolts holding the tank straps, and a couple fuel lines+pump wires.
I used a motorcycle jack stand and did it on the street. Not too bad, seems much easier than fighting rusted bed bolts. Good luck

 

Removing the entire tank is a pain in the backside, but removing the bed makes working on it much easier. It also gives you a chance to do a thorough inspection of the frame and brake lines.

There are a few grounds to be careful of when you do this. The lighting ground at the driver side rear frame rail has a 13mm screw. The fuel pump ground is on the top of the frame rail south of the filler, pretty sure it’s a 13 as well. Finally, the filler neck static drain has a pretty small screw that can easily get missed. Three 7 or 8mm screws hold the filler in place.

The bed bolts are 18 or 19mm. I forget. Should be 8 of them. Goggles are a must.

 

DO NOT remove the truck box to gain access to the fuel tank!!! That is something a dumbazz automotive engineer would do.

Drive the vehicle until your sucking fuel vapors from the tank. Basically run out of fuel where your gonna repair the fuel tank

Next jack up the rear axle and place on jack stands along with the floor jack still supporting the differential. Choke front wheels securely.

Disconnect vehicle battery.

Go under the vehicle, ...set up 2 plastic milk crates (if necessary use short 4x4 and/or 2x4 pieces of lumber) to take up bottom clearance issues at each end of the fuel tank. Now get on a floor creeper and undo the 2 gas tank strap bolts that hold the gas tank straps. Let the 30 pound or so (uneven weight distribution) fuel tank down slowly onto your milk crate supports. Remove enough lumber shims to gain access to the fuel sending unit and emission hoses.

Once everything is properly removed, carefully slide the tank out without causing a spark against the concrete.

Next only install the "proper high quality fuel tank" for that vehicle. If you vehicle is over 75,000 miles, also replace the fuel pump / gas tank sending unit with a factory OEM to avoid future fuel delivery problems down the road. Aftermarket / cheapies fuel assemblies have more operational problems in their lifetime. Change the fuel filter at this time also.

Clean the fuel tank harness ground that attaches to the frame. After the ground has been thoroughly cleaned, apply a small amount of bearing or white lithium grease over the ground fastener hex bolt.

Now with the new tank, switch all old gas tank insulators or insulation if available.

Throw out old gas tank fuel sending unit seal.

Reassemble now in reverse order.

 

Ditto being careful with pump brands. Delco, Delphi, and Bosch are the best. Stay away from Airtex and any others.

 

Thanks for input.. funny you mention milk crates.. one of the properties I maintained.. ( before sold) had a ton of them dam things in garage.. oh well. kind of funny and somewhat unbelievable but I replaced the fuel filler neck and the fuel filter a few months back and the lines actually broke loose without breaking and requiring the line repair kit. Pure luck there along with a shot of PB Blaster daily until repair complete.
So yeah I figure I will get under there and see how the hardware looks and start PB'ing ; )
And yes, there a cheapo fuel pumps out there that are pure garbage im aware of. ok lunch break over.. Peace

 

What Cowboy stated, those brands are used in motor vehicle manufacturing process. Follow his instructions to the "T".

I hate watching anybody waste their time doing outlandish repair procedures.

As for milk crates, ...that is a "essential tool" for any experience wrench, mechanic, technician or anybody that has a half a logical brain. I've seen milk crates configured to hold the largest motors off the floor. Seen them configured as outside couches by attaching them together with nylon ties. Seen heavy tuck mechanics turn milk crates into a engine bay step surround. "NEVER" throw out or ignore any milk crate!!!

 

And great for storing things, I have lots of 'em.

 

Yeah got under vehicle earlier. Considering this is a rust belt truck its actually pretty clean under there. Got busy with the PB and may or may not pull bed. Not sure yet. I do like the milk crate idea, shame on me for not grabbing more of them. I can prolly procure 2 if needed though.

 

You are the only guy in my 48 year automotive history that is "insistent" on removing the truck bed!!!!!!! I had idiot engineers that were blown out of the industry for having ideas like that.

The object in life is to do the job in the simplest way. ...The proper way, ...And not go by way of the moon to remove 8 bolts verses 2 simple bolts, then requiring 4 people to bust their azz removing the box still realizing the taillight harness and gas filler neck is still attached adding more unnecessary connectors and fittings.

If you were in my shop and started to remove box bolts I'd fire you on the spot!!!!! That thought process should never be considered!!!

Sorry for sounding harsh, ...but somebody in reality is gonna make you look like an idiot if they find out what your gonna do.
Hell if I was your neighbor, ...I'd ride you like a dirt bike.

 

Last night when i read this i looked over at a stack of milk crates with that smartass evil grin on my face. LOL CHEERS!

Al

 

when I dropped my burbs tank i used my tranny jack. When i bought it 4 or 5 years ago i kinda got some heat from a few people that i was wasting my money. well **** i have dropped a tranny without one and it wasn't fun. I have also dropped a tranny with one and it was so slick i couldnt believe it. Well when it came to the Burb I tried to get my father in laws tranny jack back but he had sold it so i went and bought one brand new. He probably gave me the most heat for wasting my money but really its an investment. So i did one tranny 4 or 5 years ago and then it did the burbs gas tank and i couldnt believe how easy it was to accomplish with this jack. It was worth every penny. I didn't break any bolts or anything, i also didn't really soak the bolts/nuts all that much. And i replaced every single component. All raw metal was sanded, primed, painted and then sealed.The gas tank itself is a spectra which is a very special metal that dosent require any additional rust profiting but i slobered the entire thing in grease, same with every single fitting. I also went at all the metal i couldn't get to with the tank in the way, cleaned, treated, primed, painted and sealed.

I dont care.... at all costs im keeping this Burb forever!

Al

 

Al,

When "anybody" makes fun of my tool purchases, I charge them through the nose for the use or part of their repairs if I get involved. Love it when people start to "SUCK UP" when they need the specialty tools I have.

Tranny jack??? "Live long and prosper from others!!!"

 

repairs are usually cheaper than a down payment and monthly payments

 

Been out of car payments with 10 to 13 year stretches over the last 50 years.

Love watching all these people making $400+ a month car payments and their vehicles are constantly falling apart just outside of warranty.

Get people asking me all the time how I can keep a vehicle 20 years+, ...get over 200,000 miles or more without any major repairs.

Simple answer:

Change "ALL" fluids at their maintenance intervals with the "proper recommended" fluids.

Change "ALL"maintenance parts with their factory replacement. That includes outside repairs too. No cheapie parts ever!!!

NEVER overheat the motor!!!

Try to keep the motor under 3,000 r.p.m.s as much as you can.

Stay off dirt roads or wooded trails as much as possible

Keep the vehicle, engine bay, driveline, undercarriage free of dirt salt, oil scuzzies.
Wipe down door jambs, nooks and crannies.
Wax where you can. Keep the interior clean like your home.
Keep in garage as much as possible when weather is bad.

NEVER let a mechanic touch your vehicle, they do not have diagnostic capability. If a technician touches your vehicle (a person who has diagnostic capability) either go by his reputation or give him some "pretext questions" on the repairs he is about to do to test if he knows' his chit.

Most important factor, ...DO NOT let any teenagers, ...people who are "accident prone" or who have a "lead foot" touch your vehicles.

 

Yeah I know its not necessary to remove the bed it would be primarily for inspection purposes. But no worries not gonna go thru the hassle especially with the bed liner and tool box in the way

 

The only time I lifted the bed (except to repair/replace it) was to change the fuel pump and strainer. Then I loosened the right side bolts, removed the left side ones (along with the filler neck bolts plus related tail light wires) and jacked up the left side of the bed, blocked it (safety first) so I could get to the top of the tank where the sender & fuel pump access is.

Wanna drop the tank, don't mess with the above...