[Flyinfool]

Well so far the light is still working and I still have 2 of the 8 readiness monitors that need to be set before I can take the emissions test.
I just had surgery and it may be a few months before I can drive any how.

 

[brian c lindsey]

jeff , instead of cutting any wires did you try just removing the wire connectors from the plug, and finding a nother or a new plug to replace it, i think places like napa has some replacement plugs, not sure if they have what you need. i only bring this up as i am one of those guys who would just cut and splice back when i was young and dumb, i have been cured of that bad habit, and dont advocate cutting any wires to anyone

 

[Flyinfool]

Cutting wires is not my first choice. I do not have a pin extractor or replacement connector and pins. My current goal is just to get passed the emissions test, then I can fix it right at my leisure once I have healed up some.

 

[brian c lindsey]

I do understand your situation ,I would use Sodering , and shrink tube , then tape it up

 

[Flyinfool]

Still trying to get the last 2 monitors to be ready for test. I think they should have been ready by now but they are not.
The last 2 are the catalyst monitor and the evap system monitor.

 

[Flyinfool]

Well this is still fighting with me. before I can get all of the readiness monitors to clear the P0650 code comes back, It is not one of those codes that will go away if the problem goes away, I can not pass the test with a code present and I can not get the code to stay away long enough to pass the test. I missed by seconds one time, all the monitors cleared and no codes, I beat feet to the test station and all was good, in the middle of the test the P0650 popped back up and it failed, there was only about 30 seconds left in the test. Major BUMMER.

I have been messing with trying to get the stars to align but no luck. I think I kind of determined that it is heat related. The code seems to pop up if I go for a long drive and does not "fix" itself till it is cold again.

So today I took the dash apart again and hooked up all my test gear to mess with it and went for a drive. As soon as it blinked out I pulled over quick to do some checking.
The pink wire that supplies +12v power to the IC (Instrument Cluster) was reading zero volts. This is good in that it means it is not the Engine computer or IC that is bad but it is a power wire issue.
I immediately went to the under hood fuse panel where that wire is connected to fuse #48, a 10A ATM fuse. I tested both test points on the fuse and they both lit up. With zero volts still showing at the IC connector. So now I know that it is the wire between the fuse panel and the IC.

A long while back I had a situation where that #48 fuse had melted the plastic housing but did not blow. I believe it was due to a bad contact for the fuse in the fuse block. that would explain the heat generation without high amps blowing the fuse.

I have no idea how to get to the back of the fuse block to see if I can replace that terminal. Since the fuse test showed power on both sides of the fuse I am assuming that it is the circuit side of the socket that is bad.

So now the new plan.

I bought a ATM fuse tap that will plug into the bad socket and has a place for a fuse for that circuit as well as a second fuse to power a pigtail that comes out of it. I plan to put a good fuse into the pass thru socket and another 10A fuse for the pigtail. I will run a new wire from the pigtail to the IC connector to be able to back feed the circuit to power all of the other stuff that is not working as well as the IC. I even found a local source for the correct AWG pink wire so that the new wire will even be the correct color per the factory wiring diagrams.

But as I type this I am still not able to walk and it is a howling blizzard outside with 4-8 inches expected and drop to sub zero temps for the next week to turn this snow into concrete. So I do not know when I will be able get back out to it.

 

[Flyinfool]

Well I braved the cold and snow, It is 6°F with a 35 mph wind blowing so a wind chill of -19°F and 4 inches of fresh wet heavy snow that has frozen solid. I do not have a garage or any other shelter to work in.
I got the new wire run and connected at both ends, Initial testing looks good, But then so all of the other fixes initially. Now I just have to drive it around enough to get all of the readiness monitors to clear and then I can take it for a test again. 🤞🤞🤞
For now I have the wire thru the dash, out the drivers door, thru the dender to under the hood and into the fuse panel where it is connected to the add a circuit. A few tie wraps to hold it in place and it should be good enough to get theu the test and last untill warmer weather to do it much neater. My toes and fingers are frozen, I am still in a walking cast on my foot so there is not much insulation there. At least I will not need to ice it for a while......😁

Fingers are crossed that this one is the charm.🤞🤞🤞

 

[brian c lindsey]

Hearing that makes me glad I live in desert , if I wanna see snow I drive to it , the leave when I'm done

 

[RayVoy]

Jeff, I feel your pain, I have to do everything in the driveway as well.

But this year so far, we are having a great winter, only one snow storm and temps above freezing almost every day.
Love it.

 

[Flyinfool]

I did not know it at the time But this issue was related to an issue I posted about 3 years ago. In fact I think it is the very same root problem, I never did find a resolution back then. It was also a lot more intermittent back then to.
This is the thread from back then;

Cruise control light?

2011 Silverado 1500, 5.3l, 4x4, ext cab, 8' box. In the last few days I seem to have developed an intermittent cruise control light in the instrument cluster. It is the green light in the dash to tell me when the cruise is engaged. Is that an incandescent bulb that can be replaced or is it an...

www.gmtruckclub.com

Here are pics of the melted fuse from 3 years ago along with a new fuse. That melted fuse was still working fine, and tested fine with an ohm meter. I just happened to see it while I was working on installing my HID headlights so I thought I was being preemptive in replacing it. Somehow I think this was the root of my issue all along.

This is the type of device I used to add in the new wire. By tapping the same circuit it is still being turned on and off when it is supposed to be on or off.

 

[Flyinfool]

WOOOoooo HOOOoooooo

This has finally officially come to an end. I passed my emmisions test today. I am now good for another 2 years. One the weater gets nice I will still redo this wire I added to get thru the test, But at least I am now legal again.

 

[bazar01]

Jeff, re your cruise control light fix, which fuse # has the melted body?
I lost my cruise on light a while back but never bothered to attempt to fix. My cruise control works but the light in the instrument panel is out.
Care to share your experience?
Thanks.

 

[Flyinfool]

Bel, If it is the same issue as mine, the Cruise indicator, the compass display, and the check engine light not coming on during the bulb check when you turn the key to on but before you start the engine. all of those functions are on the same fuse. I will have to dig the books back out to get the fuse number.

 

[bazar01]

Ok. Thanks.
I just realized yours is a 2011.
It could be different.

I'm just not motivated to pull out the cluster. It may just need a regular bulb.

 

[Flyinfool]

I dug out the books, it is / was fuse 48 (for gas engine or fuse 45 for diesel) in the under hood fuse panel.

 

[KCoons-TX]

Not sure yet but I think I may have found it.

The circled pin is the one that controls the MIL.
It sure looks a bit melted to me and it is hard to see in the pic but that contact also looks a bit tarnished.

I plan to use a tip cleaner for my OXY/ACT torches to get in there to clean up the contact in the connector and then bend the pin in the IC just a tad to help put more pressure on the connection.

View attachment 168114

I can not see how to extract the pins from the housing or I would get a new housing from a scrap yard. I may still do that later, even if I have to cut and splice all of the wires, at least there are only 14 of the 20 positions that are being used. There is easily enough slack in the harness to do this.
For right now I just want to get it thru emissions.

Then there is still the concern of WHY did that pin get hot enough to melt the plastic when it is just powering an LED?
Hopefully just a high resistance causing the heat.

Where was this connector located? Is this for the IC?

 

[Flyinfool]

Yes this is that connector on the back of the IC.

 

[KCoons-TX]

I’m having the same issue with my IC. Did that solve your problem? It’s driving me nuts.

 

[KCoons-TX]

After living with this problem for 3 months, I changed the #48 fuse, it corrected the problem. I did notice #43 fuse was very loose, and did not seem to seat properly. Anyone know what it controls?

 

[RayVoy]

KC, I hate to be an ass on a holiday Monday; but if you want an answer to that question, you have to tell us what your driving.