[Flyinfool]

My issue was very intermittent. Fuse $43 is not the fuse for the CEL/MIL which is what raises the P0650 code. It is fuse #48 that will affect the P0650. Fuse #48 also powers the compass, and the cruise control indicator (the cruise will still work fine just the indicator light wont) there may be other things that I am unaware of, If you have a different vehicle than me it could also be different.
Yes running this new wire did fix my problem. I will soon be redoing it to be neater and permanent, When I did the repair it was snowing, windy, below zero temp, and I was on crutches (I am just now getting to walk pretty good), I just needed functional at that moment in time.

@RayVoy Isn't the holiday Monday next week 😁

 

[RayVoy]

@RayVoy Isn't the holiday Monday next week 😁

Probably in the US Jeff; but today is a holiday in Canada, Queen Victoria's birthday. I know the US wouldn't have a holiday for an English Queen; but I thought your May holiday fell on the same day.

Glad to hear, your getting around without the crutches.

 

[brian c lindsey]

<~~~sitting here chuckling, thinking to myself , holiday weekend is this next monday ray , but then i realize you're in canada , i guess im not awake just yet

 

[RayVoy]

Brian, Jeff, does your May holiday ever fall on the 3rd Monday, I seem to recall driving into Maine on our holiday weekend and you guys also having a holiday?

Edit:
I looked it up, it's always the last Monday in May, ours is always the 3rd Monday, so they would never overlap.

Edit,
Just realize today is the 4th Monday in May, so I looked it up. Our holiday is on the Monday before the 25th. Her birthday is the 24th, so some years it could fall on the 24th (this year); but it will always be a Monday.

 

[brian c lindsey]

sometimes , its always last monday in may, and this year my birthday is the next day, june 1st

 

[RayVoy]

Ah, that's a good day, my oldest daughters birthday is the same day

 

[brian c lindsey]

my nieces birthday is the 31 of may

 

[KCoons-TX]

2010 Silverado LT 4WD crew cab 5.3l LC9

 

[RayVoy]

2010 Silverado LT 4WD crew cab 5.3l LC9

KC, fuse 43 is for misc power including cruise control.

However, a loose fuse tells me you may be starting to experience a common problem with your generation of trucks, a failing underhood fuse panel.
Most of the time the problem with the fuse panel is corrosion, but lose of tension goes along with corrosion.
You may want to lift the fuse panel and check under it for corrosion.

 

[danmc981]

Hi flyinfool have the same problem that you did with the po650 mil lamp circuit. The pic you show of the 20 pin connector, is that the one from the ic? The hott spot that it shows does not appear to be the correct location for pin 5, am i correct?

 

[Flyinfool]

Yes that is the connector from the IC.
The melted pin is pin 18, it is the pink wire that supplies 12V from the underhood fuse panel for the mil light. The computer supplies the ground to turn the light on.

 

[lightinus86]

Not sure yet but I think I may have found it.

The circled pin is the one that controls the MIL.
It sure looks a bit melted to me and it is hard to see in the pic but that contact also looks a bit tarnished.

I plan to use a tip cleaner for my OXY/ACT torches to get in there to clean up the contact in the connector and then bend the pin in the IC just a tad to help put more pressure on the connection.

View attachment 168114

I can not see how to extract the pins from the housing or I would get a new housing from a scrap yard. I may still do that later, even if I have to cut and splice all of the wires, at least there are only 14 of the 20 positions that are being used. There is easily enough slack in the harness to do this.
For right now I just want to get it thru emissions.

Then there is still the concern of WHY did that pin get hot enough to melt the plastic when it is just powering an LED?
Hopefully just a high resistance causing the heat.

So I love the effort you put into this. Your work is methodical, just like mine. If you’re gonna fix something, do it right. The only exception in my book is it when I have no other choice and that still grieves me. But I digress, I just rediscovered an old actron III OBD 2 diagnostics tester that I found at our local dump still in his packaging and decided to test it on my 05 GMC Sierra and as you probably have guessed, P0650 appears. incidentally, I’ve done some recent work on the cluster replacing stepper motors, and LEDs and I did find the battery light LED exploded. Not sure what went on there, but this cluster had previous work done, very sloppy I might add and that’s coming from a complete amateur perspective however I am competent and I was able to clean up that work after doing a little research and solder a new battery indicator LED on there however I did mess up a little bit. It turns out it’s now blue instead of red, which I’m perfectly fine with. I took it off of the spare board that was installed on the truck when I bought it. Thank God, they had the original jammed under the seat because the secondary one they installed was not programmed for steering wheel controls, and I kept having service brake booster warning on all the time. But again I digress.

 

[lightinus86]

I just rediscovered an old actron III OBD 2 diagnostics tester that I found at our local dump still in his packaging (you would be surprised what I have found at the dump brand new) and decided to test it on my 05 GMC Sierra and as you probably have guessed, P0650 appears. incidentally, I’ve done some recent work on the cluster replacing stepper motors, and LEDs and I did find the battery light LED exploded. Not sure what went on there, “ but it was exactly the same scenario with The secondary cluster that came installed with this truck “but this original cluster had previous work done, very sloppy I might add and that’s coming from a complete amateurs perspective, however I am mostly competent and I was able to clean up that work after doing a little research and solder a new battery indicator LED on there however I did mess up a little bit. It turns out it’s now blue instead of red, which I’m perfectly fine with. I took it off of the spare board that was installed on the truck when I bought it. Thank God, they had the original jammed under the seat because the secondary one they installed was not programmed for steering wheel controls, and I kept having service brake booster warning on all the time. But again I digress.

Well, I was going to show you the code and then wouldn’t go away until read instructions and you got a hold erase down for five seconds which cleared the code. Started the truck for a minute cut it off retested and we are good to go. Not so much advice does conversation really. I hope you figured it out. Have a blessed day.

 

[lightinus86]

Well this is still fighting with me. before I can get all of the readiness monitors to clear the P0650 code comes back, It is not one of those codes that will go away if the problem goes away, I can not pass the test with a code present and I can not get the code to stay away long enough to pass the test. I missed by seconds one time, all the monitors cleared and no codes, I beat feet to the test station and all was good, in the middle of the test the P0650 popped back up and it failed, there was only about 30 seconds left in the test. Major BUMMER.

I have been messing with trying to get the stars to align but no luck. I think I kind of determined that it is heat related. The code seems to pop up if I go for a long drive and does not "fix" itself till it is cold again.

So today I took the dash apart again and hooked up all my test gear to mess with it and went for a drive. As soon as it blinked out I pulled over quick to do some checking.
The pink wire that supplies +12v power to the IC (Instrument Cluster) was reading zero volts. This is good in that it means it is not the Engine computer or IC that is bad but it is a power wire issue.
I immediately went to the under hood fuse panel where that wire is connected to fuse #48, a 10A ATM fuse. I tested both test points on the fuse and they both lit up. With zero volts still showing at the IC connector. So now I know that it is the wire between the fuse panel and the IC.

A long while back I had a situation where that #48 fuse had melted the plastic housing but did not blow. I believe it was due to a bad contact for the fuse in the fuse block. that would explain the heat generation without high amps blowing the fuse.

I have no idea how to get to the back of the fuse block to see if I can replace that terminal. Since the fuse test showed power on both sides of the fuse I am assuming that it is the circuit side of the socket that is bad.

So now the new plan.

I bought a ATM fuse tap that will plug into the bad socket and has a place for a fuse for that circuit as well as a second fuse to power a pigtail that comes out of it. I plan to put a good fuse into the pass thru socket and another 10A fuse for the pigtail. I will run a new wire from the pigtail to the IC connector to be able to back feed the circuit to power all of the other stuff that is not working as well as the IC. I even found a local source for the correct AWG pink wire so that the new wire will even be the correct color per the factory wiring diagrams.

But as I type this I am still not able to walk and it is a howling blizzard outside with 4-8 inches expected and drop to sub zero temps for the next week to turn this snow into concrete. So I do not know when I will be able get back out to it.

What a headache you have on your hand I bet at this point it’s it’s a cluster migraine. I mean, I’m reading this like a story you got me captivated. I’m sitting on the metaphorical edge of my seat!

 

[lightinus86]

Well I braved the cold and snow, It is 6°F with a 35 mph wind blowing so a wind chill of -19°F and 4 inches of fresh wet heavy snow that has frozen solid. I do not have a garage or any other shelter to work in.
I got the new wire run and connected at both ends, Initial testing looks good, But then so all of the other fixes initially. Now I just have to drive it around enough to get all of the readiness monitors to clear and then I can take it for a test again. 🤞🤞🤞
For now I have the wire thru the dash, out the drivers door, thru the dender to under the hood and into the fuse panel where it is connected to the add a circuit. A few tie wraps to hold it in place and it should be good enough to get theu the test and last untill warmer weather to do it much neater. My toes and fingers are frozen, I am still in a walking cast on my foot so there is not much insulation there. At least I will not need to ice it for a while......😁

Fingers are crossed that this one is the charm.🤞🤞🤞

Dear Mr. Jeff , I must say you are a natural storyteller. Splendid work with the diagnosis and the story.!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼