It's easy to remove the bed. Just Google it.

Once the bed is off you'll find other things that need fixin'.

Ted

 

Yes to properly repair the mount you'll need the bed out of the way, the last one I repaired we were able to un-bolt and lift the bed out of the way far enough to do the job. We used an overhead hoist to do the lifting. It was about an hour worth of work.

 

An hour to lift the bed off? Seems like 8 (18mm) bolts, 2 electrical connections and the filler neck. I’m hoping I can prop the bed up high enough to get in there with a grinder and welder since I don’t have a hoist to lift it. I’m really worried about the condition of the bolts too.

 

No, an hour for the whole job.

 

Wow, I’m definitely not that good. I haven’t welded in years and never removed a bed before.
So I’m looking to buy a cheap welder, basically for this job and maybe other small projects, will this work? https://m.harborfreight.com/Flux-12...TE0NjUiLCJza3UiOiI2MzU4MiIsImlzIjoiOTkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiMTIzMTIifQ==

 

Lincoln sp100 is the compact,small one to look into,flux core to start,then upgrade to gas, good for up to 5/16 either way,110v

 

My buddy got a free Lincoln SP-100 recently but we know nothing about it. Does it have to run on gas? I really don’t want to deal with gas if I don’t have to. I was told that small harbor freight welder would work, but I’m still skeptical, I just don’t want to dump a ton of money into a welder I’ll probably never use. Renting is extremely expensive too.

 

No gas if you don't want to,innershield wire,lift side cover on sp100and all info is there

 

I’ll have to go borrow my buddy’s SP-100 and mess around with it then. If I don’t have to use gas with it, then that is free.

 

While you do not HAVE to use gas. It will be a lot easier to do the weld and you will get a much better weld if you do use gas.

Which ever way you go, do some practicing on scrap metal of about the same thickness to see if you are actually getting full penetration with the little welder.

Either way, lots of cleaning down to bare metal, do not try to weld thru rust or other surface contaminants.

 

I know gas is better but I just don’t want to go rent a tank somewhere and deal with that. I don’t really care how ugly the weld looks, as long as it holds up. I don’t plan on hauling any heavy payloads or going off roading so there shouldn’t be too much stress on the shock/Mount. I have experience welding even though it’s been years but I don’t really have any scrap metal to practice on. I’m just going to mock up the bracket with a new shock and tack weld the mount on after cleaning the subframe as best I can, then take my time welding the mount fully on.

That cheaper welder says you can weld on dirty metal which makes NO sense to me.

 

Just in normal driving there is a LOT of force on that shock mount.
I saw the claim that it will weld dirty metal, that is why I told you to clean it first.
Make sure that the sub frame is not also rusted away, it wont do any good to weld to weak metal.

 

Heres the thing. A small welder like that doest put out enough amps to weld thick metal. Oh you can lay a bead with it, but you wont have much weld penatration into the base metal. My rear shock mount on the passengers side was hanging on by a thread on my 97. I have a Miller stick AC-DC. I welded mine with this. I did not remove the bed, and put a lot of weld down. Keep in mine I am a certfied welder, with over 30 years of experience. For that same money you will have to invest in getting what you need to do the job, you can have it done. Or you should at least get a real welding machine to do the job. You can always rent one for a weekend. Given the amount of weight and shock load that the bracket will see, you need to put a good weld down that will hold up to the stress. If not, you will just brake the weld off, and be back to square one all over again, along with the added task of removing old weld. You could remove the bed, then bring it to a welding or good machine shop, and have them do it for you. Our min charge is $45 thats about what this job would cost here.

 

You can always fabricate a mount and drill holes and fasten it in with hex screws and lock nuts. I have a similar problem I'm going to take 1/4 inch sheet steal and cut the metal with my cut off tool and bend it in the vise I have and then make the holes and simply bolt it in. If I have to replace it; it will be easy to do. Welding is not the only option for this you have. I have a nice multi-process welder; but I do not like welding that area because of the fuel tank is near that spot. It is safer to drill the holes and bolt it in for a temporary or even a permanent repair. If I make a drawing and have good measurements I'll post that here.
Thank you

 

The bracket and subframe tube aren’t very thick, so I was worried about penetrating too much since it’s so thin especially with a heavy duty welder. I looked into renting a welder, it was a $250+ for a weekend and I also need a dedicated 220v +30a circuit which I don’t have. If the welding doesn’t work, I’ll get some trailer lights and drive it without a bed to a shop to be welded up.

I thought about bolting something up but it’s welded to a round tube and that’s somewhat rusty too, I won’t really know what I’m working with until I get the bed off, hopefully Sunday. I’m really at my end with this truck, considering selling it since it seems cursed.

 

It is always good to be safe taking the things out of the way to make sure there is enough material to weld or bolt to. I hope everything goes well for the repair. Make sure to put something to protect from any sparks or slag from landing on the fuel tank or other items that could be damaged from welding slag or grinding sparks that are hot. Good luck with that repair.

 

Don't forget, a full tank of gas is LESS likely to explode than an empty tank. Gas does not burn, it is the vapors that burn.

I know one shop that drains the gas tank and fills it with water to be safe while welding on or near the gas tank. Then dries it out and puts the gas back in along with a good dose of a gas drier, when the job is done.

 

I know how these projects go.
Start out with one thing and before you know it you are rebuilding the whole truck. This is just like an old house; Go to fix a leaky faucet and before you know it you got the bathroom torn down to the studs.

Reading your post and thinking what I would do with this truck;
I would remove the bed. get four to six dudes (or my ex girlfriend) and lift the box off and put it on some horses. I don't know if it is necessary to remove the bumper and hitch.
Considering the rust on this truck I would consider that a Wisconsin fire wrench would be required as bolts may need to be heated up or cut off.
Possibly remove tank if necessary. Probably a must, probably other needed to be removed to make way.
Sand blast the area of the broken mount, maybe even sand blast other areas as needed, required for inspection on metal to make sure it is solid.
I can't weld for ####, so I would pay somebody to weld this for me, Like a body or frame shop or find a @kennythewelder dude to weld this for me.
After welding, clean everything up and paint with POR-15
Replace bed ect..
Drink Beer and tell friends..."Whose the Man Now"

 

I know how these projects go.
Start out with one thing and before you know it you are rebuilding the whole truck. This is just like an old house; Go to fix a leaky faucet and before you know it you got the bathroom torn down to the studs.

Reading your post and thinking what I would do with this truck;
I would remove the bed. get four to six dudes (or my ex girlfriend) and lift the box off and put it on some horses. I don't know if it is necessary to remove the bumper and hitch.
Considering the rust on this truck I would consider that a Wisconsin fire wrench would be required as bolts may need to be heated up or cut off.
Possibly remove tank if necessary. Probably a must, probably other needed to be removed to make way.
Sand blast the area of the broken mount, maybe even sand blast other areas as needed, required for inspection on metal to make sure it is solid.
I can't weld for ####, so I would pay somebody to weld this for me, Like a body or frame shop or find a @kennythewelder dude to weld this for me.
After welding, clean everything up and paint with POR-15
Replace bed ect..
Drink Beer and tell friends..."Whose the Man Now"

X 2,,,,,, Exactly. In my case, I kept hearing this knock when I hit a bump in the rear. It took me forever to figure out what it was. I finaly got tired of hearing it, so for about the 5th time, I jack up the truck, but left the tires on the ground somewhat. I pushed and pulled things around and finally saw that the shock mount on the frame, passengers side was loose. 3 of the 4 rivets were broken, I could have drilled them out, but hey I am a welder, so for me that was easier then fighting to get the rivets out.

 

For temporary lights get a set of magnetic tow lights from Horbor Freight. I paid less than $20 a few years ago. When you get the bed back on pack up the magnetics and put'em on a shelf in the garage. You will be surprised at the times they come in handy. Like having to tow a vehicle or a buddy's trailer with lights wired backwards.

Be sure to get at least the 20% off coupon.

Ted

 

Or like when you have to tow your buddy's ford.