Also. Pulled the 7 inch harness that plugs into the switch and everything looks fine

 

 

Replaced it 3 times Kenny. And watched these multiple times. Thankyou for the reply though

 

Sorry, I should have read your thread better. Sounds like the alignment of the switch is off. Its been a while since I fooled with mine, so I don't remember how to set it. A trip to the salvage yard may be a good idea. That way you can look to see if there is something you are missing. (EG a clip, pin IDK, but something)

 

Well I had that thread about the squishy brake pedal. Many times the pedal was slammed down to the floor hard. Trying to function abs and just overall repeated hard braking. Squishy pedal has been resolved. But wonder if that cause the lever that the brake switch slides over in the brake pedal to bend? Damnit if so I think that's a bitch to pull. Makes sense though

 

Loosened the booster from the firewall thinking maybe it was too tight against the brake pedal. No change. Can you pick up on your brake pedal at all. Is there any upward play. Mine returns all the way maxed and was thinking that the pushrod is keeping tension on the switch. ?????

 

Oh and one more possible solution? This brake booster was pulled from a junkyard before I acquired the truck. And the issue with brake lights has been there since I got the truck. Maybe the rod that connects booster to brake pedal is bent causing the misalignment. Just hate to replace a good booster to not fix the problem lol

 

A bent boster rod is unlikely, but could happen. Since Im not there to look at the truck, all I can do is think that it is something that makes the switch come on. There are 2 different switches I think. Is yours like the switch in the first video I posted ? The poster shows you how the brass tab is bent inside of the switch. This makes the switch not act rite. IMO your issue is more likely to be something like that. A small brass tab like that would be easy to bend when installing the new switch. Or maybe the pin that the tab fits on is worn or bent a little. Think about it like this, If the boster rod is bent, then the brake peddle will be closer to the floor because the distance from the booster will be shorter than it would be if the rod was straight. If anything, the brake lights would be on all of the time. You could pull it and check for a straight shaft with a straight edge.

 

If not the pushrod then could be the rod they the switch slides over. But that will require replacing the brake pedal. The tab in switch is fine. Still straight. And brand new. Haven't even driven with it yet

 

There can be different lengths to the push rod, depending on brake option, vehicle, year etc.... Your peddle might be ridding low, and the brake light is on.

 

Also check the return spring.

 

The brake pedal sits all the way up. And I don't believe there is a return spring for mine. Wonder if the rod is longer and keeping tension on brake pedal. Can u guys pick up your brake oedal even the slightest

 

No, not at all

 

So I'm probably going to replace the booster soon. Then the brake pedal if nothing changes. That's the only linkage between the brake switch. As u said. Something might be misaligned since 8t is a junk years booster. Who knows

 

Changing the booster will not fix a switch problem.

Crawl under the dash and look at what's happening.

It's mechanical linkage, you need to inspect the movement (travel) of the individual pieces.

 

I get what your saying. And everything looks ok. This switch is connected to the rod of the booster and to the brake pedal. When u release the pedal u see the rod back off the bottom inside the switch. When the pedal maxes out coming back up, the rod continues to push towards the drivers seat slightly more. Engaging the button again. Its slight but just enough. I've been under this dash for days

 

I grabbed a booster from a junk yard for 15 bucks right now. Looked to be in good shape. I'm going to start pulling mine apart in about 30 min. I'll let you guys know if it changes anything. I'm kind of confident

 

So ray was right. Wasn't doubting him just needed piece of mind. But replacing the booster game me some new insight and I'm worried I might have something wrong structurally. My brake lights are working good when the truck is running. If I turn the truck off and pump the pedal(relieve vacuum from booster) the brake light will turn on. So I tried it another way. Ran truck, brake lights working good. Shut off truck ( brake lights were still off) popped hood and disconnected vacuum line from booster. Brake lights will turn on immediately. Wtf is going on lol

 

popped hood and disconnected vacuum line from booster. Brake lights will turn on immediately. Wtf is going on lol

this is just a guess, when the vacuum is removed would that let the rod move into the booster, just a little, which might let the pedal move enough to operate the switch?

 

Can someone tell me what each wire color is for the brake switch. I'm thinking of mounting another style break switch for my brake lights. But want to know what the other colors are for so I can work around this problem

 

That's what 8 thought would happen. Plbut the rod actually sinks further into the truck. Know I probably should have found the issue but I just decided to throw my own brake switch in off an Honda. Just finished and actually works great. Got tired of trouble shooting. And anyone I talk to at home says there must be some structural damage. So here's what I did. Dont have cruise now but not much a worry for me