Oh weld for sure. I would never bolt in a C notch.

 

Every one I've talked to so far except you and me has said bolt in. "Oh, no you will weaken the frame" . Duh, you just cut a huge section of frame out.
Reason I'm asking, my oldest son just bought a '93 SS454 that has already had a 6" drop 6 in the rear, with bolt in c notches.

 

It appears ok now, with the bolts in place, Im just wondering if we should weld it in.

 

Well I am a welder, so for me, its the way to go. A proper weld joint is always stronger than a bolted joint. This is how I would do it more or less.

 

The frame is not made of some wird metal, its just mild steel. As long as you bevel the weld joints, and follow welding procedure there wont be an issue, but you could always add doubler plates, but IMO you dont need to. The fact that the connection is on an angle will give you enough weld to hold the parts together. You could always pre heat the weld area just to be on the safe side, but its not nessary on anything less than 3/4 inch thick. As long as the weld cools off slowly, there wont be an issue. I have welded truck frames before, and never had an issue, but not a C notch.

 

@kennythewelder is 100% right.

When you weld the C-channels your integrating the frame rails back to the way they were design for dealing with multi axis vibration / load stresses whereas if you bolt those same C channels you only have single axis pinch points which could eventually elongate or tear the frames metal. Also, when you weld your spreading out the frame load over a much wider area than pinch points.

 

So guys, not knowing anything about welding, he has the notches already bolted in place; can he leave the bolts and also add the welds?

 

Yes @RayVoy he can, … but it looks like a ******* job of installation.

 

Got ya, so Rick what's the proper way, to fill the holes then weld?

 

MIG (AKA: Snot welder) to fill in the holes, larger gaps, cracks and fu*k ups.

I myself like and used TIG for frame welds. TIG "fuses" the 2 welding metals together, whereas a snot welder uses a outside, sometimes a 3rd type metal to join everything together. TIG is so much cleaner, stronger in some instances, nicer looking, … and less metal finish where needed.

Here's a picture of my TIG handy work. This is my computer monitor support stand I had to build when getting my UAW Skilled Trades card.

Was asked to design, build out of dissimilar metals (1/2 inch square carbon steel frame and 304 stainless 1/16 thick base plate), then place it on a "MAST" table to shake my support structure to 100,000 cycles in a multi axis 100 g stress test for weld failures. ...it passed.

Here's what's left 20 years later.

 

X2 on what Rick said in his last 3 response. TIG welding is the strongest, best looking weld, as long as the welder knows what he is doing.

 

A real b*tch is when one of your welder evaluators (nuclear welding certification master) slices open a aluminum beer can then says reweld it back up to the point it won't leak my beer out. ...yes it can be done so don't bet these guys a couple cases of beer, ….you will loose!!!

Never tell them that's impossible!!! Then you even get a chittier welding task like nook and cranny welding with a very hot object. Some of these welders do the impossible. Gotta see the when they do plastic welding!!!

 

Over the last few years I've purchased a dozen or so lowered trucks, three of them that I remember well had bolt in "C" notch's, all three I remember because after close inspection they all needed work on the "C" notch due to the bolt in kit loosening up and wallowing out the holes.
Since I don't have a Tig welder and get a little skittish about who I allow to weld on critical parts (like the frame) I fixed the problem by making a good groove in the metal where I was welding it and while I was welding it I pre-heated the metal with my torch to help improve penetration.

 

My plan is to get it up to eye level and pull the bolt in plates off, check the frame cuts to assure they are property radiused, then reinstall & bolt in place, tack down, remove bolts and fill with weld. Then finish welding the edges. Any thoughts ?

 

I understand that's the way lowering is done. But.... I would have never bought a truck that someone had cut chunks out of the frame. And on purpose at that. LOL

 

Your on point @Retiredmastertech. Maybe @kennythewelder has better input???

 

A proper weld job is nothing to be afraid of. Just look at any 23 T bucket. That frame is built by hand. The thing to avoid is when hardend front end parts have been welded. Like a ford twin I beam that well says no welding stamped on the part. Thats what needs to be avoided.

 

My plan is to get it up to eye level and pull the bolt in plates off, check the frame cuts to assure they are property radiused, then reinstall & bolt in place, tack down, remove bolts and fill with weld. Then finish welding the edges. Any thoughts ?

Sounds like a plan to me. Just be sure to clean the metal to be welded down to shiny metal. That what you want to weld onto. And be sure there is no paint with in 3 or 4 inches where you are going to weld, and grease needs to be 8 to 10 inches or more from the weld joint. Shiny metal all the way around will weld good.

 

@kennythewelder . That's right. When I was still working, I was certified on critical welds on aieral lift trucks. I bet we can get this beast tamed.
I have never been involved with a "lowered" truck before this week. I can't in my wildest dreams understand what posested someone to I cut the notches out of that perfectly good pickup truck frame. I but to each his own.
I guess that's why god made more than one kind of Chevrolet. LOL

 

Most important part not mentioned...., …. disconnect the vehicle battery!!! Electronics cannot handle voltage spikes.

 

Agreed! You may even want to unplug your PCM too.

 

@Motor City Rick thank you for the reminder.