[RayVoy]

Ted asked a question back in post 14 and the more I think about this, he may be on to something.
We have two relays (lock and unlock) when one is operated the actuators move in one direction. When the other relay is operated, the actuators move in the opposite direction.
We know the actuators work, therefore the relays are working because the function to lock when in motion works, also, the function to unlock when selector goes from D to P works. All being done with engine and alt running.

The lock when the truck is turned off does not work, maybe there is some corrosion at the door latches and when the engine is off, there is not sufficient voltage to over come the corrosion resistance.

Have you tried the lock function with the engine running.

 

[oldmanstruck]

I FIXED IT!!

back on my post #6, I mentioned:

1) on my fuse panel cover (from side of the dash) it NOTE: " When equipped with power locks without keyless entry, install 30A fuse. When equipped with power locks and keyless entry, install relay."
I bought a small box of 30A fuses ( 4 for $4) on my way home and replaced the one near center (which is a 3A purple fuse) with this one 30A and the door finally locked when pressing the inside door lock button.

Mixed feeling after the fix... 1st, feel like YES!! finally works (I am sure you all know what I mean) and than I was like dude...the panel clearly stated to use 30A fuse. Why didn't I follow... The problem is it doesn't show me which one to replace as there are few of them labeled with "door lock". At the same time, I was like how can you jump from a default 3A fuse to a 30A fuse? What if it fire other components and I aren't EE guy...

On my part, I should have focused on that fuse note. I also think Chevy needs to make it clear to show which one should be replaced " When equipped with power locks without keyless entry, replace 3A fuse with 30A. When equipped with power locks and keyless entry, install relay."

Anyway, I told my wife I finally fixed the door by replacing a $1.00 fuse but I ended up buying $90 parts. As a side note. I contact 1A Auto and trying to return both actuators and I told them I still have it in the box and the root cause was a fuse. They said no need to send it back but will credit the $ back to my account.

Again, thanks for showing support.

 

[RayVoy]

Hey, good job. Like you, that doesn't sound right to me. If the 3 amp wasn't big enough, it should have blown the fuse.

 

[j cat]

I FIXED IT!!

back on my post #6, I mentioned:

1) on my fuse panel cover (from side of the dash) it NOTE: " When equipped with power locks without keyless entry, install 30A fuse. When equipped with power locks and keyless entry, install relay."
I bought a small box of 30A fuses ( 4 for $4) on my way home and replaced the one near center (which is a 3A purple fuse) with this one 30A and the door finally locked when pressing the inside door lock button.

Mixed feeling after the fix... 1st, feel like YES!! finally works (I am sure you all know what I mean) and than I was like dude...the panel clearly stated to use 30A fuse. Why didn't I follow... The problem is it doesn't show me which one to replace as there are few of them labeled with "door lock". At the same time, I was like how can you jump from a default 3A fuse to a 30A fuse? What if it fire other components and I aren't EE guy...

On my part, I should have focused on that fuse note. I also think Chevy needs to make it clear to show which one should be replaced " When equipped with power locks without keyless entry, replace 3A fuse with 30A. When equipped with power locks and keyless entry, install relay."

Anyway, I told my wife I finally fixed the door by replacing a $1.00 fuse but I ended up buying $90 parts. As a side note. I contact 1A Auto and trying to return both actuators and I told them I still have it in the box and the root cause was a fuse. They said no need to send it back but will credit the $ back to my account.

Again, thanks for showing support.

I said it was not the locking actuators. fuses and relays was what I thought but I was not there. hard to see from my location.

 

[xPosTech]

last vehicle I had with vent windows was my 1967 442. problem is these windows make it very easy for crooks to break in.
my 1973 chev impala had no vent windows.

Yup. In Jan. '83 I bought a new CJ7. I was moving to a new apartment in Spring Branch and left the Blazer there overnight. The next day (with a popped passenger vent wing) the only thing missing was my tool box. It did give me a chance to replace them with a full set of Craftsman but I did do some cussing.

I would still prefer the wings. A few years later my Grand Prix suffered a broken window when someone liked my stereo. The wind wings would save a window if you were lucky (or unlucky as it were).

Ted

 

[j cat]

Yup. In Jan. '83 I bought a new CJ7. I was moving to a new apartment in Spring Branch and left the Blazer there overnight. The next day (with a popped passenger vent wing) the only thing missing was my tool box. It did give me a chance to replace them with a full set of Craftsman but I did do some cussing.

I would still prefer the wings. A few years later my Grand Prix suffered a broken window when someone liked my stereo. The wind wings would save a window if you were lucky (or unlucky as it were).

Ted

smokers sure did miss these vent windows. back in those days just about everyone smoked . I remember the GM CEO stated the vent windows will never come back cost too much ..He was on an afternoon talk show.

 

[xPosTech]

Yeah I would seriously consider installing aftermarket vent wings if they were available. Would have to remove the window and cut it vertically, install the post and wing then reinstall window. Basically the opposite of the delete mod.

In a heartbeat. (No pun at Mike intended. )

Ted

 

[WolfAngel]

I pull the relays and have my EE guy at work checked, seems to work properly. I went home and check all the fuse and all seems ok as well.
But here is another thing...
1) on my fuse panel cover (from side of the dash) it NOTE: " When equipped with power locks without keyless entry, install 30A fuse. When equipped with power locks and keyless entry, install relay."

2) My Silverado is a LS, has power door lock but NO keyless remote option. So which fuse I should replaced with 30A? Right now if I look at the cover, all fuses have the right AMP matching what's in the fuse box.

3) When I press the inside (both switches) I can hear the click from the relay and I can also see the door lock indicator on the door moved a little, kind of like being override or not enough power to lock. I was thinking it might be an override to prevent a potential lock out when key is still inside?? So I tried to use the door key to lock from the outside but it still wouldn't auto lock the passenger side.

4) I also read the manual showing there is a power delay after engine shutoff? or before you open the door. I think the way it works is when you turn off your engine before opening your door, the radio will still run for up to a minute? Can any of you confirm this on your truck? It seems like there is one fuse/relay that handle this and might be related to my door lock issue...

It is very difficult to climb over to the passenger side to lock my door every time before I get out.

My delay is 10 minutes (radio thing)...this is my 2nd GM with that feature but I don't think that is your issue (no expert, just guessing). I currently have a 2009 Avalanche and I'm having lock issues with the tailgate (power lock only/no manual key) and sometimes the driver's back door wont unlock. For the back door, I've noticed that if I lock/unlock (2 or 3 times) using the inside switch, it will unlock that back door but still baffled as to why my tailgate still wont lock with the fob.

 

[RayVoy]

Angel, I suspect you have a broken wire where the harness goes through the hinge to get into the tailgate.
Drop the gate and you can remove the inner panel. When open you should be able to see the wires going to the lock mech, just trace the wires to the hinge and look for broken copper. It could be inside the plastic insulation; but you should be able to see it. Sometimes gentle pulling on the wire will show the broken inner copper.

 

[WolfAngel]

Angel, I suspect you have a broken wire where the harness goes through the hinge to get into the tailgate.
Drop the gate and you can remove the inner panel. When open you should be able to see the wires going to the lock mech, just trace the wires to the hinge and look for broken copper. It could be inside the plastic insulation; but you should be able to see it. Sometimes gentle pulling on the wire will show the broken inner copper.

Thank you, I will have that checked out as soon as I get home (hubs and son can do it)